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法式甜點的在地化:以雙北留法獨立法式甜點師傅作為文化中介者為例

Domesticating the French Pastry: A Case Study on Artisanal French Pastries as Cultural Intermediaries in Taipei

摘要


本研究探討法式甜點在臺灣成為新興文化現象之生產者脈絡,探究臺灣赴法留學青年甜點主廚之能動性,採用參與觀察及深度訪談法採集口述歷史,並以「生產」、「循環」、「近用」三大面向作為資料分析架構,進而理解其學習動機、跨國流動過程,及如何扮演甜點文化的傳播中介者角色。本研究發現,儘管臺灣青年甜點師傅學習動機具有差異,卻皆透過出國累積身體化技藝與文化資本,在回臺後作為文化中介者,透過開設獨立品牌店舖,作為展演品味的物質空間,傳達異國料理的形象,透過各種敘事語藝形塑「道地」法式甜點之意義。這群臺灣青年甜點師傅成長於數位原生世代,利用新媒體建立專業社群、召喚品味價值認同的消費者,進而推動法式甜點成為臺灣新興都市消費文化之發展。

關鍵字

飲食品牌 文化中介 品味 消費文化 真實

並列摘要


This study aims to contextualize the production of a nascent French pastry culture as a new urban cultural phenomenon in Taiwan and a process of cross-cultural communication in relation to culinary culture. We contextualize dietary culture according to three aspects: production, circulation, and access. Furthermore, we examine the agency of a group of highly educated chefs who have received their training in France. The main methodology of the study consists of participant observation and in-depth interviews. This study analyzes the motivations of the chefs and their process of accumulating bodily knowledge, culinary techniques, and cultural capital during their transnational movement. Facing competition from transnational pastry brands, many of the pastry chefs involved in the study have decided to build their own brands upon returning to Taiwan. These chefs have used their pastry shops as spaces to perform their unique interpretation of the taste and style of French pastries and maintain direct communication with their customers. In their shops and in the media, the chefs actively create a discourse on authenticity and cultural meanings associated with French pastries. As digital natives, many of the chefs have built their professional networks through social media and appealed to a niche consumer market that identifies with taste and value. These conditions have led to the development of a new French dessert culture in urban Taiwan.

參考文獻


Ferguson, P. P. (1998). A cultural field in the making: Gastronomy in 19th-century France. American Journal of Sociology, 104, 597-641. doi:10.1086/210082
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王淑芬(2016 年 5 月 30 日)。〈藍帶廚藝糕點學費百萬高餐開課了〉,《中央社》。取自 https://www.cna.com.tw/news/ahel/201605300373.aspx
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