考古所見中國古代廚師形象略說

The Summary of the Image of Cooks in Ancient China on Archaeology

王仁湘(Ren-Xian Wang)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第4屆 (1996/03) Pp. 123-163

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1996.04.08

摘要

中國古代的廚師，由於時代的不同，服務對象的不同，以及他們所掌握的技藝不同，使得他們有了一些不同的稱謂，如周代有膳夫、庖人、亨人之稱，宋代有廚娘、廚婢、庖子之稱。歷代的廚師究竟是哪般模樣，浩如煙海的古籍沒有為我們提供太多的資料，使我們無法進行具體的描述。大量的考古發現，彌補了文獻上的缺憾。半個多世紀以來，考古發現了大量的石刻、墓室壁畫、泥俑等等，其中包括了不少古代廚師的具體形象寫照動，既生動自然，又真實可信。本文準備利用這一批考古代資料，對中國古代的廚師進行一番考察，同時對他們從事的庖廚活動進行一些考察。有關中國古代廚師的考古發現，最重要的當是漢代畫像石。畫像石上描繪的庖廚場景，據粗略統計，已有不下100幅。漢晝上的庖人從事各種庖廚活動的都有，包括殺牲、烹飪、設宴、傳食、釀造等等，刻劃細緻入微。其次還有許多漢俑，有不少是操刀的庖廚俑，正在著意於他們的刀工，俑前的案面上擺滿了各種動植物食料。在一些魏晉時代的墓室磚畫上，則有不少廚婢的形象，看著她們忙忙碌碌的樣子，感覺非常親切。在新疆出土了唐代做麵食的女廚俑，有磨麵的，也有擀麵的，神態可人。傳世的宋代畫像磚，則描繪有正在斫魚、滌器和烹茶的廚娘，輕巧幹練之中透出一種高貴氣質。我們在遼代墓室壁畫上還讀到揉麵廚女、點茶僕侍的畫面，感受到那個時代濃烈的氣息。自戰國時代就有的「君子遠庖廚」之說，後人誤解了這話的本來意義，並由此引申出輕視廚師的觀念，實在是很不公正的一件事情。我們由考古所見的古代廚師形象，更加理解了廚師這個職業，也更加懂得了烹飪文化對社會發展意義之所在。

並列摘要

Cooks had various titles in ancient China according to the times they lived, the group of people they served, and the skills they mastered, such as ＂Shanfu＂(膳夫), ＂Paoren＂(庖人), ＂Penren＂(亨人) in the Zhou Dynasty and ＂Chuniang＂(廚娘), ＂Chupi＂ (廚婢), ＂Paozi＂(庖子) in the Song Dynasty. It is difficult for us to describe them in detail because of a shortage of historical documents. The archaeological finds filled the gaps in literature on this topic. A large number of stone carvings, tomb murals and funerary clay figurines have been unearthed since the beginning of this century, and in them the cooks of ancient China were depicted vividly. In this essay, I would like to research on ancient Chinese cooks and thier activities using these archaeological material. Among the culture relics on cooks, the stone reliefs of the Han Dynasty are the most important. There are about one hundred stone reliefs in which various cooking scenes were engraved minutely, such as slaughtering, cooking, giving a banquet, delivering foods and making wine. There are also a large number of pottery figurines of cooks dating from the Han Dynasty, some of them are cutting with knives, and various unprocessed foods laid on a cutting board in front of them. When you see the images of servants busy with their jobs painted on the bricks in the tombs of the Wei and Jin Dynasty, you will feel as if you were there. Female pottery figurines dating from the Tang Dynasty, some of them milling flour, others rolling dough, were brought to light in Xingjiang province. Their expression is expecially charming. The stone reliefs which came to us from the Song DynaSty show female cooks killing fish, washing dishes and boiling water for tea. These figures appear refined dispositions. The scenes of female cooks kneaking dough and serving refreshments, painted on the tomb murals of the Liao Dynasty, show the strong spirit of that period. There was a statement during the period of the Warring Statement ＂Gentle- man always keeps cooker away. ＂ later generations misunderstood it's meaning and came out an idea of looking down upon cooks. The unearthed objects on cooks increase our knowledge of the ancient cook's profession and adds to the understanding of cooking culture's significance in social develepment.