蘇軾飲食觀研究

A Study of Su-Shi’s Dietary

江梅綺(Mei-Chi Chiang)

指導教授 ： 李貞慧

國立清華大學/人文社會學院/中國文學系/碩士(2015年)

摘要

蘇軾作為北宋著名文學家，在他一生中，曾寫下許多與飲食相關的作品，其飲食書寫橫跨詩、文、詞等不同文類。這些作品在後世廣為流傳，也使蘇軾的個人性格更為鮮明，若要令人指稱中國古代美食家，蘇軾必定名列前茅。然而，雖然蘇軾與飲食的連結印象千古不衰，後人對他的飲食理解卻相當片面，常僅止於幾道與蘇軾相關的菜餚。
但實際上，作為日常生活的一部分，飲食作品除了記錄新奇體驗，也經常與作者的生涯良窳、思想情致緊密結合，本文書寫的目的，即意圖藉由分析蘇軾飲食文本，追索蘇軾如何看待生活中的飲食。研究過程發現，蘇軾筆下飲食不單是美食，並且他對每一食類的態度各有差異。同時，在每段生命時期過渡間，因際遇、疾病造成的困境，也使蘇軾面對飲食的視角逐漸變化。而本文最終關懷，在於蘇軾如何藉由飲食之味體現其人生體悟，期待對飲食的探析能作為理解蘇軾的切面之一，使蘇軾面貌及其研究向度更趨豐富飽滿。

關鍵字

蘇軾 ； 北宋 ； 飲食 ； 茶 ； 酒

並列摘要

Su-shi is one of the most famous writers in the Northern Song Dynasty. In his life, he had written many diet-related works across different genres, such as poetry, articles, lyrics and so on. These works were widely circulated, and reveal a part of Su-Shi’s personality. Among the alleged Chinese gourmets in the ancient time, Su-Shi is certainly one of them. However, most people only have the impression of a few dishes associated with Su-Shi.
In fact, as a part of daily life, diet-related works not only record new experiences, but also reveal threads of iterative development, and usually are connected with the writer's life and mental experiences. This study aims to investigate the role of dietary in Su-Shi’s life via his works.
The study attempts to argue what Su-Shi wants to convey in his works ,are not only delicacies ,but his attitudes toward each kind of diet. Su-Shi’s view of dietary constantly changed through each critical period in which he experienced disease ,starving ,etc. In conclusion,Su-Shi’s works of dietary reflect his thinking pattern as well as attitudes toward the life.

並列關鍵字

Su-shi ； Northern Song Dynasty ； diet ； tea ； wine

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