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  • 學位論文

以東西方服飾元素探討文化背景對衣著偏好之影響

The Relationship between the Cultural Background and the Dressing Preference of Eastern and Western Clothing Elements

指導教授 : 陳瑾儀
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摘要


東方代表服飾「旗袍」之重要元素、西方代表服飾「禮服」之重要元素及東西方元素之時裝,每個時期之服裝皆有其重要元素之組合成分所在,不論於圖案、裝飾、色彩、款式、線條、材質等設計表現。以旗袍之「立領」、「盤扣」、「刺繡」、「開襟」、「绲邊」、「龍鳳紋」等元素和禮服之「花朵」、「蕾絲」、「蝴蝶結」、「荷葉邊」等元素。本研究藉由文化背景之四類族群,分別以台灣背景女性、歐美澳背景女性、及曾在東方和西方國家居住生活含二年以上之二跨文化背景女性,透過深度訪談法及圖像反應法瞭解其對於服飾元素之看法及差異;再者,以台灣區分之二背景族群,以曾在西方國家居住生活二年為標準,二年(含)以上為跨文化背景族群;反之,二年以下為台灣背景女性,以美感與流行生活型態及身體意象之變項對服飾元素偏好之關聯性。 本論文以質量化方式呈現,以質性為主,並透過量化資料來輔助質性研究之訪談,以強化質性之研究結果。質性方面,受訪各年齡層及各文化背景族群對服飾元素偏好之異同,其是否會忠實於當地文化抑或受異國文化之生活洗禮而改變對於服飾元素之偏好 。量化方面,18~60歲長居在東方國家文化背景之女性及具東方國家文化背景但在西方國家居住生活含二年以上之女性為主,以瞭解其對於服飾元素偏好之關聯性。並以美感與流行生活型態量表及身體意象量表之題項結果進行因素分析,將各因子得分結果使用K-means進行集群分析,以分類到不同之集群。最後,利用單因子變異數分析檢定不同之美感與流行生活型態集群與身體意象集群是否對服飾元素偏好有顯著差異。 經由質性及部分量化研究結果顯示,文化背景方面,台灣背景女性及曾在西方國家居住生活二年(含)以上之台灣女性皆對西方服飾元素有所偏好;而西方背景女性及在台灣居住生活二年(含)以上之西方女性皆對東方服飾元素有所偏好。年齡方面,18~25歲及26~30歲之年輕族群皆偏好西方服飾元素,而51~60歲之稍長族群較偏好東方服飾元素。美感與流行生活型態方面,由於各美感與流行生活型態之族群無法顯著影響服飾元素偏好,因此,服飾產業之相關業者或許可進行跨國西方文化之問卷調查,以探討對東西方服飾偏好影響,增加研究結果之周延性,進而改善美感與流行生活型態分群之結果。身體意象方面,儀表重視者對西方服飾元素偏好程度大於完美意象者。

並列摘要


There are usually specific elements of clothing toward geographical areas of different cultures. In the east, cheongsam can be regarded as the representative clothing which has “Collar”, “Frog Button”, “Embroidery”, “Front”, “Piping” and “Dragon and Phoenix”. In the west, dress can be regarded as the representative clothing which has “Flowers”, “Lace”, “Bow” and “Border”. In this research we use four categories to illustrate different cultural backgrounds, such as females live in Taiwan, America (plus Canada, Europe and Australia), and females have cross-cultural backgrounds. We use in-depth interviews and picture-response techniques to understand how the cultural background influences the female’s preferences of clothing elements. Moreover, aesthetics and popular lifestyle, and body image were applied as parameters to discover the clothing preference of females of Taiwan cultural background to explore the relationship between those parameters and the preference of clothing elements. Qualitative and quantitative mothods are applied in this study. In the qualitative part of the research we interviewed females of different ages and cultural backgrounds to understand the differences and similarities of their preference of clothing elements to discuss whether they keep faith with local cultures or may change their preferences due to the baptism of foreign cultures. In the quantitative part of the research we divided females of Taiwan cultural backgrounds to know the relationship between the cultural backgrounds, ages and the preference of clothing elements. After factor analysis and K-means cluster analysis, samples can be divided into various groups by aesthetic and popular lifestyle, and body image variables, then examine if there are significant difference between each groups. The qualitative and quantitative results indicate that, first, by the cultural background, “Taiwan-single background females” refers to females ever lived in western countries under two years. “Cross-cultural backgrounds” refers to females ever lived in western countries more than two years. These two groups both prefer the western elements. “Western cultural background females” refers to females ever lived in eastern countries under two years. “Cross-cultural backgrounds” refers to females ever lived in eastern countries more than two years. These two groups both prefer the eastern elements. Second, when divided samples by age, females in 18 to 25 and 26 to 30 groups both prefer the western elements, and females in 51 to 60 group have the highest preference toward the eastern elements. Third, aesthetic and popular lifestyle groups have no significant impact on the preferences of clothing elements, further survey with complete samples is recommend to increase comprehensiveness of the results. Finally, when we applied body image to analyze, group “ Appearance emphasis” has higher preferences of the western elements than group “Perfect image”.

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