洋風、和風、臺灣風：多元雜揉的臺灣漢人服裝文化（1624-1945）

從荷蘭到日治，臺灣漢人服裝文化的發展日趨多元。荷蘭時期的臺人多是穿庶民衣裝，明鄭時期則開始出現郡王、官員至庶民等不同身分者的服裝。至清代，臺人服裝出現奢華的特點，這顯示臺人對服裝的講究，也代表臺灣經貿發展的提昇。　　進入日治時期後，臺人的服裝文化受到教育學習、流行訊息、社會接觸及商家供應等層面的持續影響，大量的洋服、和服、制服進入臺灣社會，加上臺人原本穿著的臺灣服，使臺灣漢人的服裝文化相當多元。大致而言，臺人積極主動地追求現代性洋服，但未捨棄在地的臺灣服，較排拒殖民性格強烈的和服與改良服，不過也在愛恨交織的矛盾情緒中接受了兼具殖民性與現代性的官員制服。　　從臺人對服裝的抉擇上，也可以見到其實日本政府的控制力並不如想像中的強大，雖然其曾試圖干預、指導臺人的服裝，但成效有限。由此可見，臺人在服裝文化上擁有相當大可以自主揮灑的空間。而臺人在此空間所呈現的自主性，並非全然具有反抗殖民的性質，有些是相對於環境、傳媒所產生，有些則是相對於殖民體制而產生。雖然這些自主性可能是發生於不同層次，卻都同樣促成了臺灣漢人服裝文化多元雜揉的樣態。

關鍵字

服裝；服飾；流行；自主性；服裝文化；多元文化；臺灣服飾

並列摘要

From the Dutch to the Japanese colonial period, the clothing culture of the Han in Taiwan became increasingly diverse. In the Dutch colonial period, Taiwanese mostly wear common people’s clothes. During the Ming-zheng ruling period, different styles of clothes which were designed for the King, Officials, soldiers, and civilians started to appear. Until the Qing Dynasty, the Han in Taiwan were characterized by luxury clothing, which showed that the Han emphasized the appearance of the clothing and this also represented that the Taiwanese Economy began to develop. 　　During the Japanese colonial period, the clothing culture was heavily influenced by the education, fashion trends, social network, and the ways of supply. In addition to the traditional Taiwanese clothes, large numbers of western clothes, Japanese kimono, and uniforms began to appear in the Taiwan society. Therefore, the variety made Taiwanese clothing culture very multi-dimensional. In general, Taiwanese embraced the western style of clothing instead of colonial and improved clothes such as Japanese kimono. However, for some reasons, Taiwanese accepted government official uniforms with the blended styles of both modern and colonial. 　　By observing the Taiwanese people’s choices of selecting clothes, it is evident that the controlling power of Japanese government on Taiwanese society was not that powerful as imagined. Although the Japanese put the effort of influencing the way of dressing, the effect was limited. Therefore, Taiwanese had a lot of freedom and space of choosing the preferred style of clothing and this has shown that the autonomy may be arisen from the environment and the media communication in addition to the effect of colonial system. This has contributed the diversity of Taiwanese clothing culture.