宋代的食羊文化

The Culture of Eating-Sheep in the Sung Dynasty

王啟屏(Chi-Ping Wang)

指導教授 ： 王德毅

國立臺灣師範大學/文學院/歷史學系/博士(2002年)

摘要

本文討論時期，以宋代為主，但因飲食的傳承、文化的演變，未必與政權更迭同步，故不可避免要上溯前朝。
飲食常反映一個特定時空的文化，透過飲食文化的變遷，可對一個社會的社會文化作出另一層面的瞭解。食羊在中國的飲食文化中，占的角色是相當特殊的。先秦以來，食羊就一直是上層階級所特有的專享，隨著游牧民族進入中國，傳統的食羊文化與游牧民族的飲食習俗相結合，在唐代漸成為身份之象徵，食羊不只是一種飲食，甚至成為一種象徵。在經過五代十國長久的分割後，宋代飲食文化上北食與南食的衝激與融合，在此時顯得十分顯眼，本文擬以食羊文化在宋代的發展演變為主軸，一觀宋代飲食文化之變遷，及其在社會上所產生之影響。
本書擬分數章以資討論：第一章、羊與宋代以前的飲食文化：討論宋以前的羊在醫療、飲食、官方使用上的發展以及飼養的地域。第二章、羊在宋代飲食中地位的變化：透過北食中肉食之變遷、南北飲食文化之差異與融合、皇室飲食中水產與羊的易位、乳類食品之南向、羊產銷之擴大與南向等，透過這些飲食文化的變遷，來探討羊在宋代飲食地位之改變。第三章、羊與宋代社會生活：透過士大夫生活、人生禮俗、日常生活、羊料理之發展以及與食療間之關係，以探討羊與宋人社會生活之關聯。

關鍵字

羊 ； 飲食 ； 南北文化 ； 肉食 ； 食療 ； 乳酪 ； 水產

並列摘要

The Culture of Eating-Sheep in the Sung Dynasty
Chinese food culture is a captivating subject. Food often demonstrates the culture of a particular space-time. Eating-meat is a rare chance for farmers and paupers. It often shows the status. This paper attempts to examine the transition of food culture in the Sung Dynasty through the Culture of Eating-Sheep as principal axis. South and North developed the difference in the food culture. Sheep, pigs, dogs, cattle, these domestic animals are categorized as northern food. Sheep become main deputy account for diversified cause. The Southern Chinese food included wide varieties of fishes, shells, waterfowls, and frogs, according to local natural environment.
Because the transfer of the Sung Dynasty government to the south and more southern-officials, different food cultures merge and fight in the Sung Dynasty was an obvious process. Among the process, the transition of Eating-Sheep was the most remarkable phenomenon. Through it, we can get the view of social culture to observe the transition of food culture. This paper hopes to discuss it in several chapters. Chapter 1:The Sheep and the Food Culture before the Sung Dynasty. Chapter 2:The Change of Role of the Food Culture of the Sung Dynasty.. Chapter 3:The Sheep and The social life in the Sung Dynasty.

並列關鍵字

sheep ； food culture ； Eating-meat ； dietetics ； cheese ； water fowl