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  • 學位論文

三峽藍染業的發展與蛻變

Development and Changes of Indigo Dyeing Industry in Sanxia

指導教授 : 林美容 江韶瑩
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摘要


本研究之目的,一在建構三峽藍染產業史,二在探討近年來三峽社區藍染工藝的發展。在研究方法上以文獻史料的蒐集整理及田野調查為主,嘗試以工藝文化誌之敘述方式,還原三峽藍染業的歷史面貌,說明藍染業自道光年間安溪移民帶入本地,至日治時期百年間的興衰變遷,及其對三峽鄉街社會發展之影響。其次以筆者自身發起成立民間文化社團,投入三峽老街保存工作的實務經驗,在社區文化尋根的覺醒下,重新學習傳統染布技術,進而分析社區藍染文化產業發展的現況與契機。 三峽藍染業因本地環境適宜、安溪移民帶入染布技術,加上1821年以後艋舺商人在三峽山區投資藍靛生產,染布業者便在街庄同行結市,開啟「三角湧染布街」的榮景,歷經萌芽期、興盛期、衰退期至蛻變轉型時期。初期以臺北盆地經濟圈為其運銷市場,一八七○年代以後,受臺灣開港等市場經濟需求的帶動,規模擴增,與艋舺、大稻埕形成「城市-鄉街」區域產業分工模式。日治大正年間,因交通的便利與其優異的染布技術,染布商品市場擴及臺灣各地,成為馳名全島的「三角湧染」。 在臺灣藍染產業的發展上,三峽屬於鄉街藍染業的經營型態,這些在地的染布商人與地域社會的關係至為緊密,甚至扮演主導鄉街聚落改造的關鍵角色。透過官商合作與政治、社會、經濟網絡的建立,累積了更多的商業資本,並成功地轉化為其他行業的經營者,持續影響日治至戰後三峽市街的社會經濟發展。 一九九○年代,三峽老街保存運動興起,在文化資產保存及社區總體營造觀念的引導下,重尋藍染業與三峽聚落發展的歷史脈絡,並跨入傳統植物藍靛染色技藝的學習,進而帶動社區藍染工藝的出現,有志者並紛紛成立工作室;並獲公部門的支持,投入經費辦理技藝研習及三峽藍染節活動。更以藍染之名,舉辦國際研討會與國際交流展,提升三峽社區藍染工藝的知名度。 三峽染布商家族的崛起,見證了臺北盆地西南緣鄉街拓墾的軌跡;三峽藍染業的興盛、轉型與蛻變,可以印證臺灣染布產業文化的興衰起落。未來,三峽藍染工藝發展應結合文化創意產業的發展機制,建立自有品牌,展現在地特色,成立藍染生活工藝館,以營造活力與創新的三峽藍染文化。

並列摘要


The purposes of this study are: 1) constructing the history of indigo dyeing industry in Sanxia and 2) exploring the development of indigo dyeing workmanship in local communities of Sanxia in recent years. The research methods include literature review of historical materials and field investigation. The researcher attempts to restore the historical appearance of the indigo dyeing industry in Sanxia with narration of workmanship anthropology, explaining the rise and decline as well as changes in the century from the introduction of indigo dyeing in Daoguang period of Ching Dynasty to Japanese occupation, and its influence on the development of the market town in Sanxia. With the researcher’s personal experiences in a private association of cultural revitalization founded for the preservation of the old streets in Sanxia to re-learn the traditional cloth dyeing technology under the awakening of community’s traditional culture, the current development and opportunities of indigo dyeing culture is further analyzed. Due to the sound environment of Sanxia, technology brought by immigrants from Anxi, and investment of indigo products by Mengga merchants in Sanxia after 1821, the cloth dyeing proprietors started markets in streets and marked the prosperity of Sanjiaoyong Street through the periods of initiation, prosperity, decline and transformation. At the beginning, the major market was within Taipei Basin economic circle. After 1870, thanks to economic needs such as port access in Taiwan, the scale was enlarged and there was the rural-urban connection with Mengga and Dadaocheng for the division of the production in indigo industry. During Taisho period of Japanese occupation, because of convenient transportation and superb dyeing skill, the dyed cloth products were sold all over Taiwan. Which were becoming well-known as Sanjiaoyong Dyeing. In the development of indigo dyeing industry in Taiwan, Sanxia represents a special case in the promotion of the industry along with the establishment of the market town. Local merchants were closely connected to the local society and even played a key role in the restructuring of the market town street. Through the cooperation with the government officials and the establishment of political, social and economic networks, the merchants at Sanxia had accumulated more commercial capital and then successfully invested into the operation of other businesses. Thus the cloth-dyeing merchants in Sanxia continued influencing the social economic development of the market-town at Sanxia through the whole period of Japanese occupation, even after the World War II. In the 1990’s, the movements of keeping old streets in Sanxia boomed. Under the concepts guidance of conservation of cultural assets and communities of local participant construction, people re-searched the historical context of indigo dyeing industry as well as the historical gathering development in Sanxia. They got involved in learning of traditional plant indigo dyeing skill, further promoting appearance of indigo dyeing workmanship in the communities. Some people who are truly interested in indigo dyeing established indigo dyeing workshops. They have also won support from public sector who granted budget to hold workmanship study and Sanxia Indigo Dyeing Festival activities. In order to promote indigo dyeing, international conferences and interchange exhibitions were held to improve the fame of the indigo dyeing workmanship in Sanxia. The contemporary rise of indigo dyeing merchants in Sanxia witnessed the trace of reclamation of town streets at the southwest edge of Taipei Basin. Its Prosperity, transformation and changes indicates the rise and fall of indigo dyeing industry in Taiwan. In the future, the development of indigo dyeing workmanship in Sanxia should be connected with the cultural innovation industry mechanism to establish private brands and express local characteristics. A museum of indigo dyeing in which life workmanship is available should be established to create the vivid and innovative indigo dyeing culture in Sanxia.

參考文獻


1978〈淡水開港與大稻埕中心的形成〉,《臺灣師範大學歷史學報》,6:245-270。
臺北市文獻委員會 1953a〈艋舺耆老座談會紀錄〉,《臺北文物》,2(1):1-11。
1987〈由祭祀圈來看草屯鎮的地方組織〉,《中央研究院民族學研究所集刊 》62:53-114。
王怡茹 2004〈鳶山下的染坊:清代三峽藍染業發展因素探討〉,《臺灣民俗藝術彙刊》,頁107-120。
夏黎明 1996 〈發刊詞:一個在地區域研究構想的提出與實踐〉,《東臺灣研究》,創刊。

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