臺灣客家服飾文化保存與推廣之探討－以傳統時尚化之觀點為例

A Study of Preserving and Promoting Hakka Apparel Culture in Taiwan: Starting from the Viewpoint of Tradition with Fashion

謝惠珠(Hui-Chu Hsieh)

指導教授 ： 林崇偉

國立交通大學/客家文化學院/客家文化學院客家社會與文化學程/碩士(2013年)

https://doi.org/10.6842/NCTU.2013.00179

摘要

臺灣是一個多元族群的社會，不論何種族群文化都是值得保留及傳承的。客家服飾給人的印象就是樸實不奢華、注重實用、多功能使用，且注重環保等特點。惟因現代社會的發展，以致客家文化有逐漸流失的危機，身為客家子弟，更有盡全力為保存及傳承客家文化而努力的使命感。
本研究以客家傳統服飾時尚化為主軸，經由蒐集客家傳統服飾的相關研究文獻，歸納出客家傳統服飾的意象與特色，並藉此對客家服飾業者與專家學者進行訪談。透過探索客家傳統服飾特色融入現代時尚設計之過程，以深入探討保存與推廣客家服飾文化時所遭遇之問題。研究結果指出在進行客家服飾文化的保存與推廣，須聚焦於四大關鍵領域：「保存與創新」、「行銷與推廣」、「人才與培育」、「規劃與執行」。
在「保存與創新」方面應注意如何有效鼓勵創作、保護創作人權益，並兼顧民眾的參與；「行銷與推廣」方面則建議公部門應該增加公共行銷活動協助客家服飾行銷、設置客家服飾博物館，並提高公部門對客家服飾的採購。至於「人才與培育」方面應增加訓練課程與創業輔導、培育師資開設相關科系，或設置客家服飾文化薪傳師等；最後在「規劃與執行」方面則需注意中央與地方資源的充分運用、排訂優先次序，分期與分年推動，並適當結合外部專業團隊等。相信本研究能對客家服飾的保存與創新提供具體的貢獻。

關鍵字

客家文化 ； 客家元素 ； 客家服飾 ； 文化保存 ； 文化推廣

並列摘要

Taiwan is a multi-ethnic society and one in which every ethnic group’s traditions are worth protecting to pass on to future generations. Hakka apparel presents an image of non-luxurious simple dress that is both pragmatic and multi-functional while maintaining an emphasis on being environmentally friendly. However, because of modern society’s developments, Hakka culture is gradually being lost. The younger generation must now strive to protect and preserve Hakka culture or it may be lost completely.
The main theme of this thesis focuses on the Hakka fashion. By conducting a thorough literature survey on traditional Hakka fashion, this thesis first induces a collective presentation of traditional Hakka fashion's appearance and special characteristics. Further this thesis through interviews with both Hakka apparel designers and scholars investigates avenues for traditional Hakka fashion to enter into modern fashion design and examines the obstacles in Hakka fashion preservation and promotion. From this, this thesis identifies four key items that must be addressed in order to preserve and promote Hakka fashion culture: "preservation and innovation", "selling and popularization", "talent and training", and "planning and implementation."
For preservation and innovation, this thesis discusses how to efficiently encourage creation of Hakka fashion and protect the intellectual property rights of those fashions while encouraging public involvement. For selling and popularization, this thesis looks at how public promotion can be used to help Hakka fashion increase its sales and popularity amongst the general public. For talent and training, this thesis investigates how to increase the availability of training courses and professional mentoring by training qualified instructors and offering related academic course work and the possibilities of setting up Hakka tradition fashion heritage. Lastly for planning and implementation, this thesis discusses the need to: 1. make full use of central and regional resources; 2. agree on the prioritization for promotion and implementation to be staggered over a period of years; 3. combine efforts with appropriate professional groups. With this, we believe this thesis can provide a concrete reference for Hakka fashion preservation and promotion.

並列關鍵字

Hakka culture ； Hakka principals ； Hakka apparel ； Cultural preservation ； Cultural promotion

參考文獻

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