應用聯合分析法於中性化服裝之最佳化設計研究

隨著時代進步，社會逐漸關注多元性別的議題，促使近年時尚服裝界吹起一股中性風，中性風格也從舞台延伸至日常生活穿搭中。然而目前社會上一直探討著性別上的議題，中性風格也因此更受到設計師們的關注並且成為設計的主軸之一，而這股潮流風潮也注入到各大品牌的時裝秀場中，各大時尚品牌不斷的推陳出新且結合中性化風格款式。近年來，隨著女性的自我意識提高，使得女性轉為中性風格的潮流趨勢逐漸提高。而隨著消費者喜好行為的改變與服飾商品的多樣化，服飾環境同業的競爭下，企業必須迎合顧客偏好與持續不斷地改變，以符合顧客的需求，來確保長期的顧客關係。因此中性服飾的設計概念也關聯著服飾業者商品企劃的設計考量與評估判斷。研究目的能從專家的觀點出發，探討專家們認為中性化風格服裝的屬性，以建立中性化風格服裝之流行設計元素的最佳化的組合。研究方法本研究以服裝配件的「2016年春夏款式服裝配件」作為研究，邀請60位具有代表性的服裝專家業者，及15位擁有4年以上的服裝相關專家，以集群分析法與聯合分析法進行中性化服裝屬性和水準之研究。中性化服裝主要構成的六項屬性分別為：風貌、意象感覺、重要單品、外觀、色系、材質。六項屬性共組成12000種屬性水準，再利用直交法加以挑選出55組中性化服裝設計屬性水準組合，將此55組服飾圖片進行偏好的問卷評比產生研究結果。研究結果顯示屬性間相對重要性分別為風貌22.323% 、重要單品9.756%、意象感覺9.268%、材質8.655%、色系8.403%、外觀8.029%。本研究以聯合分析法探討中性化服裝之最佳化設計研究，並建立中性化風格服飾之流行設計元素的最佳化組合，並可提供設計師掌握中性化服裝屬性需求並建立有效的評價模式。

關鍵字

中性化服飾、集群分析法、聯合分析法、最佳化設計

並列摘要

With the progress of the times, society began to pay attention to the issue of gender diversity, prompted in the fashion industry blowing a stream of neutral wind and neutral in style from stage extended to daily life outfit. However, the society has been discussed with gender issues, neutral style is therefore more subject to the attention of designers and become one of the spindle design, and this trend trend is also injected into the major brands of fashion runway, the major fashion brands continue to weed through the old to bring forth the new and neutral style. In recent years, with the improvement of women's self consciousness, the trend of women's turn to neutral style has been gradually improved. With the diversification of consumer preferences change and apparel goods, apparel industry competition, enterprises must cater to customer preference and continued not to change, to meet customer needs, to ensure long-term customer relationship. Therefore, the design concept of the neutral clothing is also related to the design considerations and evaluation of apparel industry commodity planning. Research purpose from the point of view of experts of study experts believe that the properties of the neutral style of clothing, to build up neutral style of clothing popular design elements of the optimal combination. Research methods of this study to clothing accessories "2016 spring and summer fashion accessories" as the research, inviting 60 garment industry expert who has the representative and 15 have more than 4 years of clothing related experts, to cluster analysis method and conjoint analysis study of unisex apparel attributes and levels. The six attributes of the main composition of the neutral clothing are: style, image sense, important single product, appearance, color system, material. A total of six attributes of the 12000 attributes of the standard, and then use the direct method to select the 55 groups of neutral clothing design attribute level combination, the 55 groups of clothing images of the preference of the questionnaire to produce research results. The research results show that the relative importance of attributes is 22.323%, important single product 9.756%, image sense 9.268%, material 8.655%, color system 8.403%, appearance 8.029%. This study using conjoint analysis to explore optimization of unisex apparel design and research, and build up the neutral style of dress popular design elements of the best combination, and provides the designer master neutral clothing property demand and the establishment of an effective evaluation model.