旗袍•洋裝•モンぺ（燈籠褲）：戰爭時期台灣女性的服裝

Qipao, Dresses, and Monpe: Taiwanese Women's Clothing During the War Period

洪郁如(Yu-Rn Hung)

《近代中國婦女史研究》 17期 (2009/12) Pp. 31-66

https://doi.org/10.6352/mhwomen.200912.0031

摘要

本論文旨在分析1930年代末到1945年有關台灣女性的服裝論述，藉此來探討殖民地情境下戰爭在性別問題上呈現之意義。隨著戰局逐漸緊張，被迫徵召送至戰場的男性也日益增多，如同日本國內一般，如何有效加強後方的統制，特別是女性的動員，成爲台灣總督府的當務之急。事實上，殖民當局對台灣女性服裝的關注可溯及治台初期，在戰爭時期又被重新討論。同時期的日本國內，所謂「國民服」的制定等等，如何改革女性服裝以符合戰時所需成爲熱門話題，亦引發各種爭論。相對於日本國內，殖民地社會由於是以多數台灣人爲對象，服裝問題更是呈現複雜之面貌。
本文認爲，1930年代後半開始，因時因地不同在台灣女性身上交替出現的旗袍、洋裝、モンぺ等，必須從殖民地政治與流行文化兩個層面來進行解讀。身穿旗袍不一定意味著女性的「抗日」，著用和服也不盡然就表示女性的「親日」。作爲女性自我表現方式，席捲世界各地之摩登文化即使進入戰爭時期餘韻猶存。在戰爭的大義名份下，殖民地政治暴力，試圖介入女性的服裝穿著，而女性也不斷摸索著如何在戰時堅持自我。

關鍵字

日本殖民統治 ； 服裝 ； 旗袍 ； 和服 ； モンぺ ； 戰爭

並列摘要

This article analyzes the discourse on Taiwanese women's clothing from 1930 to 1945 to explore the influence of war on gender issues under conditions of colonization. As the intensity of the war increased, more and more Taiwan males were forced to join the military. The Situation in Taiwan was very similar to that in Japan itself. Therefore, enhancing control of the home front, especially the mobilization of women, became a top priority of the Taiwan Governor-General Office. In fact, the colonial authorities' attention to Tajwanese women's clothing can be traced back to the initial stages of Japan's colonization of Taiwan. In the war period, the question returned. Issues such as the establishment of a so-called national costume and how to modify women's clothes to meet the needs of the war period aroused heated debate in domestic Japan as well. However, since the colonial society was mainly composed of Taiwancse, the issue of clothing was even more complicated in Taiwan.
This article suggests that the alternation, in different times and places, of qipao, dresses and monpe in Taiwanese women's fashions from the late 1930s can best be understood from the perspectives of colonial politics and popular culture. Wearing qipao did not necessarily mean that Taiwanese women were displaying an anti-Japanese spirit, while wearing kimonos did not necessarily signify affection for Japan. As a means of women's self-expression, modern culture spread throughout the world even into the war period. In the name of war needs, the colonial authorities violently intervened in women's clothing issues. However, women also continued to search for their true identities throughout the war period.

並列關鍵字

Japanese colonial rule ； clothing ； qipao ； kimono ； monpe ； war

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