高密度極細丹尼梭織物縫合起縐之研究

The Study of Seam Pucker on High Density and Fine Denier Woven Fabrics

吳文演(W.Y. W) ； 盧姝婷(S.T. L)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 28卷1期 (2018/01) Pp. 19-32

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.201801_28(1).0003

摘要

本實驗主要研究織物為15~40丹尼之輕薄梭織物，並在不同車縫機器的設定條件、車縫線原料與車縫方法的條件下，來降低車縫起縐現象的發生。結果顯示，上下車縫線皆選擇聚酯紗，車縫線之上下張力降低、機台之壓腳壓力降低、針密愈小、裁布方向為緯向、車縫方法之車縫次數愈少時，車縫線選擇聚酯紗，較能有較平整的縫合外觀。

關鍵字

縫合起縐

並列摘要

This experiment studies the thin, high density and fine denier woven fabrics of 15 ~40 deniers, with the different sewing set conditions, sewing threads and sewing methods, to expect reducing the seam pucker problems. The results showed that, on and off the sutures are polyester yarns used, lower down the suture tension, the machine's presser foot pressure is reduced, the smaller the needle density, cut fabric in weft direction, the fewer the numbers of sewing methods ,we get sewing smooth appearance when the sewing threads choose polyester spun yarns.

並列關鍵字

Seam pucker