異質精品化：國際評鑑準則與魚池咖啡在地技術

傳統上不以咖啡聞名的南投縣魚池鄉，近幾年成為台灣咖啡的新興產區之一。本研究透過參與觀察與深度訪談，嘗試描述並分析魚池咖啡的起源與發展，進一步對魚池咖啡的精品化做出「在地」理論上的定位。本研究首先分類出先驅新歸農、先驅本業農、後續本業農戶、後續新歸農等不同角色，這些角色各有不同的生命史歷程與技術形成過程。當地方政府注意到咖啡產業的潛力後，主導性地引入業界教師並建置評鑑機制，試圖透過「精品化」來加速產業的形成。業界教師及評鑑機制皆以精品咖啡協會（SCA）國際評鑑準則為核心，當咖啡農遵照此準則生產咖啡時，無法在消費市場上佔有利基，甚而國際準則侷限了咖啡後製上的品味取向，造成原本為了協助農民銷售的生豆媒合會成效不佳。相反地，她／他們基於各自的條件，勇於挪用國際準則中的元素，組裝成足以應對各種場合的技術，自產自銷，與散客消費者建立出穩定的產銷關係。即使如此，缺少了國際準則的元素，魚池咖啡將會流於均質的庸俗商品而失去特色，因此國際準則與在地技術的關係是一種動態而持續組裝的狀態。本文建議，正視咖啡農在地實作，業界教師、課程知識與地方政府才能妥善地轉譯出咖啡農的語言，各種觀光化的政策也才能真正觸及農民。

關鍵字

SCA國際準則；先驅新歸農；在地實作；日月潭精品咖啡；組裝

並列摘要

Yuchih township used not to be a noted coffee production area until 2011. In this paper, by following and interviewing coffee farmers in Yuchih, I study the origin and development of coffee planting in this area. I try to make a clarification about specialization in the matter of local practices theoretically. I find that farmers planting coffee have different trajectories of lives and techniques-forming experiences. Then, the local governors are noticed the potential of coffee, inviting educational trainers to deliver. They try to accelerate the forming of local coffee sector by ＂specialization＂ on coffee production. However, both the educational delivers and evaluations are based on standards from Speciality Coffee Association (SCA). The standards are totally different things with farmers' mundane works. Under such regulations, their coffee are not competitive with high-altitude counterparts in Taiwan. It is hard for coffee farmers to sell their products to individual consumers. The SCA standards also make farmers disadvantageous in the public cupping which are arranged to match deals between farmers and owners of café. On the contrary, farmers appropriate elements from SCA standards, customize products, form new techniques, and build firm relationships with individual consumers. Nevertheless, if farmers produced coffee without SCA standards, they could not make their coffee production specialized and their coffee could not be distinctive with others. Namely, it is an ongoing and dynamic relationship between SCA standards and local practices. Then, I suggest taking coffee farmers' practices seriously, so that the local governors and the educational trainers can translate farmers' practical languages properly. While tourism policies stay on track with farmers, the local coffee sector will be booming and then transforming the farm village well.