舊田新農－有機農業落戶香港的過程

Old Field and New Farmer: The Localization of Organic Farming in Hong Kong

鄭肇祺(Eric Siu-Kei CHENG)

《歷史人類學學刊》 17卷1期 (2019/04) Pp. 113-155

摘要

本文探討有機農業在香港的本地化過程，以及農夫在中港政治、香港身份認同建構、環境保護及食物安全等議題中的角色。香港農業在20世紀經歷巨變，蔬菜種植成為農業體系的主流。從內地來的移民組成主要的群體，經歷「蔬菜革命」的高峰後，受到全球化的挑戰，也面對農業人口老化，環境污染及食物安全等問題。都市來的新精英引入有機農業，媒合農夫與社區，開拓新的市場渠道，卻要應付消費者對有機蔬菜原真性的疑惑。作為治理工具的本地有機認證機構，受限於香港人對內地食品的不信任，無法將業務拓展至邊境的另一方。在爭論什麼是可信的過程中，有機農產品不單是商品，也是道德經濟的產物。近年的本地環境運動及香港身份認同建構的過程中，有機農夫扮演重要的角色。

關鍵字

農夫 ； 原真性 ； 香港身份認同 ； 生活態度 ； 有機認證

並列摘要

This paper examines the localization of organic agriculture in Hong Kong. It also analyzes the role of Hong Kong farmers in cross-border politics, Hong Kong identity construction, environmental protection, and food safety issues. In the twentieth century, Hong Kong agriculture experienced dramatic changes, especially that vegetable gardening became the major sector of the local agro-food system. Chinese migrant farmers formed their community and benefited from the ＂Vegetable Revolution＂. However, they encountered challenges such as globalization, aging farming population, environmental pollution, and food safety issues. Some urban elites introduced organic farming and cooperated with consumers and other communities to explore new marketing opportunities. At the same time, organic farmers were contested by different parties who questioned the authenticity of organic food. Organic certification agencies emerged as a governance tool, but they could not extend their service to mainland China, the largest food exports to Hong Kong, because Hong Kong local farmers and consumers fail to trust mainland Chinese organic food. Organic food is not only a new type of commodities, but also a product of moral economy in Hong Kong agriculture. Moreover, organic farmers play a key role in the construction of Hong Kong identity within the context of environmental movements.

並列關鍵字

Farmers ； authenticity ； Hong Kong identity ； lifestyle ； organic certification