戰後台灣鮮乳的創造：鮮乳物質治理與食安爭議

在台灣自然環境與全球化市場的挑戰下，台灣鮮乳市場是如何建構出來？在飲食文化研究與農糧研究中，都強調市場不是消費者驅動就是生產者驅動，而在市場中的食物或其他物質，前者認為最重要的是文化意義而非物質本身；後者則認為物質只是市場交換的商品，共同依循著生產－消費、自然－社會的二元對立。然而忽略了物質如何影響市場運作，乃至於自然如何對市場產生影響。本研究透過歷史資料、質化訪談與量化數據，以ANT理論中「物質性」為主要研究概念，輔以其他ANT理論如必經關口、市場化與品質等，來分析從戰後以降台灣鮮乳的市場化過程。本研究發現分成三個部分：首先，我透過ANT的網絡概念，梳理戰後台灣鮮乳的三種歷史變遷（生產網絡的歷史變遷、生產鏈商品循環變遷以及物質性變遷），看見傳統社會學未能看見的多元、異質的社會關係。其次，我藉由對台灣鮮乳市場化過程的考察，歸納出物質性的四種面向（阻礙、控制、拼裝、脆弱性），不僅呼應物質性是關係性（relational）的概念，同時看見物質對於台灣鮮乳市場的影響。最終，綜合這兩個研究發現，我提出「物質在網絡中穩定與否，不只決定生產網絡穩定與否，也決定台灣鮮乳市場框架是否穩定」的理論觀點，強調市場不只受消費文化或生產制度，物質也是影響市場的關鍵因素。本研究希望透過台灣乳業研究，看見人與物質、自然與社會的複雜交織，凸顯自然、物質這些非人行動者對於社會關係的影響。

關鍵字

台灣鮮乳；台灣乳業；物質性；市場化； ANT（行動者網絡理論）

並列摘要

How was the fresh milk market in Taiwan constructed, despite the challenges of Taiwan's natural environment and the global market? Previous food culture studies and agro-food studies tend to emphasize how a market is driven either by consumers or producers, while neglecting the effects of the material. The food culture literature, for example, cares more about cultural significance than the material itself; and agro-food studies regard the material as nothing but the commodities in the market. Both theoretical approaches reinforce the assumption of dual opposition of production-consumption and of nature-society. I argue that researchers should take the material seriously, examining how the material affects the operation of the market, as well as how nature affects the market. This study uses historical data, qualitative interviews, and quantitative data to investigate the development of fresh milk market in Taiwan. I draw on the Actor-Network Theory (ANT) to analyze the marketization process of fresh milk in post-war Taiwan. The results are divided into three parts. Firstly, by applying ANT’s concepts, I sort out three historical stages of fresh milk market in post-war Taiwan , including the development of production networks, the adjustment of the product cycle of its production chain, and the changes of milk’s materiality. I highlight the diverse and heterogeneous social relations that are often neglected -if talking a traditional approach. Secondly, I illustrate four aspects of materiality (obstacle, control, assemblage, vulnerability) during the marketization process. These material aspects demonstrate that materiality is not only relational, but it also profoundly affects the fresh milk market in Taiwan. Finally, my empirical findings contribute to ANT’s theoretical perspective, showing that " the material is crucial to the stability of a production network, and it further may affect how market looks like." My research shows that the market is not merely affected by consumer cultures or production systems, but it is also affected by the materials involved. This study on Taiwan's dairy industry hence reveals the intricate interweaving of men and material, nature and society, highlighting the influences of non-human actors such as nature and material on social relations in a market.