客家傳統服飾現代化設計之創作

客家服飾在製衣、穿衣上，流露出客家人因戰亂變革而遷徙他鄉，衍生出「純樸勤勞，堅忍刻苦」的特質。服色上採用大地資源的藍染技術，勤儉的客家人為了節省資源，設計出一衣多穿、多用的服裝款式，兼具實穿性與方便性；是客家服飾文化的特色，若能運用於現代生活中，不但能表現出客家服飾文化「講求經濟實用，不虛華矯飾」的美學概念，也能展現客家人以自然為取向，節約愛物、著重於機能實用，正符合全球所關注提倡的環保主張。本創作主要為探討客家服飾文化特色應用於現代服裝設計，（1）從傳統客家服飾體悟昔日客家人的歷史脈絡與生活型態，於客家服飾製作上及穿著使用上的價值觀及審美觀，與現代環保理念作比對。（2）蒐集現代客家創意服飾及一衣多穿的時裝作品，進行設計特點的歸納分析。（3）探討客家服飾結合現代服裝的構件與形式。（4）以機能性的概念手法詮釋客家服飾重視的功能性價值，賦予傳統新生。將客家服飾簡約、自然、樸質的精神內涵與文化價值融合於現代服裝設計中，重現客家服飾的美感與過去的生命力。

關鍵字

客家服飾；現代服裝；機能性

並列摘要

We can see the characteristic of Hakkanese’s diligence, assiduous on Hakka clothing. They change residence to other place because of fighting a disorderly change many years ago. It affects Hakka clothing wearing and making. For saving a resource, Hakka designed a kind of clothing with multi-wear and functions. It's more convenience and suitable for wearing in every situation. The color is blue because Hakka use blue dry to dye clothes. It's very nature and also is a cultural special feature of Hakka clothing. If we make use of the cultural characteristic in our life, not only shows the cultural Hakka clothing but also match the environmental protection assertion that promotes the concern of Hakka culture in the world. These 3 creations mainly focus on cultural special feature of the Hakka clothing which applied to modern costume design: (1) To understand Hakka history and life style through Hakka traditional clothing; (2) To collect Hakka fashionable creations and multi-wear portfolios, then analyze the design feature; (3) Inquire into how Hakka clothing combine with the modern; (4) Use the characteristic of Hakka clothing, and create modern clothes. Let the tradition innovates.