快時尚服裝品牌跨界設計研究—以H&M及UNIQLO為例

在當代服裝產業蓬勃發展下，全球掀起一波快時尚的熱潮，消費者的服飾選擇性快速擴張，品牌間的相互競爭，也逐漸面臨白熱化的局面。服飾除了兼具各種版型方便穿搭之外，設計上如何在眾品牌中脫穎而出，也成了快時尚最關鍵的難題。因此許多快時尚品牌開始採用跨界設計的策略，透過與其他知名設計師或品牌的合作，為服飾的設計創造更多的可能性。本研究採用質性分析法、文獻研究法及個案研究法，針對H&M及UNIQLO兩個每年持續進行服裝跨界設計的快時尚服裝品牌進行個案分析，以探討下列問題：一、服裝跨界設計的組合及型態有哪些?二、快時尚服裝品牌經常運用的跨界設計型態為何?三、快時尚跨界設計個案有哪些共同的趨勢以及差異?四、快時尚服裝品牌，跨界設計未來可能的發展方向? 根據研究結果顯示，服裝跨界設計的組合及型態主要可分為五種不同的型態，分別是「產業跨界」、「功能跨界」、「材質異越」、「品牌聯名」及「系統重構」。而不同的跨界組合，則是由多種跨界元素透過疊加或連乘的方式相互融合而成，現有的服裝跨界個案共有十五種不同的組合。在本研究的快時尚服裝品牌個案中，跨界設計的組合主要分佈於「品牌聯名」、「產業跨界」、「系統重構」三種跨界型態中，而其中比較常被應用的是「品牌聯名」及「產業跨界」兩種型態。其次，從個案分析中歸納出快時尚跨界設計共同的趨勢，研究結果顯示在沒有特殊條件設定的情況下，個案的跨界型態多數皆以「品牌聯名」為主，且在合作客體的選擇上，兩個品牌都較偏好與屬於西方文化的客體合作。另外，由於兩個品牌在服裝跨界設計思維上的不同，導致個案在設計風格取向上形成明顯的差異。H&M在服裝跨界設計個案中，強調以「時尚」為主軸展現合作客體的設計風格。UNIQLO則是以「休閒風格」為基礎，邀請各種合作客體依照品牌核心理念進行服裝的設計創作。最後，本研究針對快時尚服裝跨界設計在型態及跨界組合的應用上提出建議，提供有服裝跨界需求的設計者參考，為服裝跨界設計創造更多元化的作品。

關鍵字

快時尚；服裝；跨界設計；品牌聯名； H&M ； UNIQLO

並列摘要

With the rapid development of the contemporary garment industry, a wave of fast fashion has been set off around the world. Amidst the prompt expansion of consumers' garment selection, the competition among brands is gradually facing a white-hot situation. In addition to the convenience of various garments, how to stand out from other brands in design has also become the most critical problem of fast fashion. Therefore, many fast fashion brands begin to adopt crossover design strategies to create more possibilities for garment design through cooperation with other well-known designers or brands. In this study, qualitative analysis, literature research, and case studies are utilized to examine the cases of two fast fashion clothing brands, H&M and UNIQLO, which continuously carry out crossover garment design every year, to explore the following problems. First of all, what are the combinations and types of crossover garment design? Secondly, what are the crossover techniques that fast fashion brands often employ? Furthermore, what are the regular trends and differences in fast fashion crossover design cases? Finally, what are the prospective developments of fast fashion clothing brands and crossover design? According to the research results, the combinations and types of crossover garment design can be divided into five varieties, namely "industrial crossover", "functional crossover", "extraordinary material", "co-branding" and "system reconstruction". The mixture of multiple crossover elements forms different crossover combinations, with 15 different combinations existing in the current crossover cases of garments. In the case of fast fashion brands in this study, the crossover design combination is mainly distributed in three types: "co-branding", "industrial crossover", and "system reconstruction", among which "co-branding" and "industrial crossover" are more widely used. Secondly, this study summarizes the regular trend of fast fashion crossover design from the case studies. The results show that in the absence of particular conditions, most crossover cases are based on "co-branding", and in the selection of cooperation objects, both brands prefer to cooperate with the objects belonging to Western culture. Also, differences of thoughts on fashion crossover design between the two brands result in apparent discrepancies in the design style orientation. H&M emphasizes "fashion" as the central axis to present styles of the cooperation objects in crossover garment designs. UNIQLO, based on "casual style", invites various cooperation objects to design and create garments under the core concept of the brand. Ultimately, this study puts forward suggestions on applied styles and combinations of fast fashion crossover garment design and provides designers with crossover needs for reference to create more diversified works for crossover garment design.