城市空間記憶與日常生活實踐
以台北市雙連飲食文化空間為例

近百餘年全球驟變，因工業革命改變人類生活，無論是全球暖化與生物絕種的自然環境還是工業、交通、科技、資訊、教育等諸多具體事證改變，或像資本主義、民主意識、女性崛起等意識形態轉變，人類社會結構因而轉變，人類認知與價值觀較過去不同而造成文化的變異。因為人與地方的聯結性極為密切，故本研究以羅蘭•巴特(Roland Barthes)，城市裡充滿各種自我論述為構想，並嘗試將文化以狄賽圖(de Certeau)鳥瞰的縱觀視角，讀取醞釀百年文化的台北市雙連地區中所經歷的歷史刻痕，舉凡台灣政權轉變、國際情勢、經濟走向、工業科技、文學藝術、教育醫療、思想意識崛起以及改寫當代常民生活與社會結構…等構成脈絡，全部清晰顯現在此。假設文化是經歷時間與經驗所形塑產生的現象，換言之文化的建構是來自人類日常生活點點滴滴疊砌而成。食物是人類的基本需求，當日常需求的飲食點滴被實踐之際，受到世界大眾所喜愛並獲取米其林(必比登)肯定的同時，意味傳統小吃、家常菜…等日常飲食不再只是吃食，而是進入飲食文化的時代，因此本研究以飲食文化作為切入點，將其拆解為具體事證(空間、時間與現象)與抽象感受(感覺、情感、記憶)兩個部分。透過多次探訪與觀察台北市雙連地區的轉變與生活現象並善用身體及感官，從動態的步行、咀嚼與更換路徑轉為靜態體驗感受、抒寫進而察覺內在的心理轉折與反思並找尋隱藏在文化裡的核心精神。

關鍵字

日常生活實踐；台北雙連；飲食文化空間；米其林

並列摘要

For over a century, human lives have been dramatically changed all around the world due of Industrial Revolution. Its coverage ranges from smaller scales like forms of education, information, technologies, transportations and industries to larger ones such as capitalism, awareness of democracy and flourishing of feminism. The fact that human societies have altered structurally leads to diversified perspectives of value and culture. This study focuses on the close relationship between people and places, delivering ideas of how people interpret places based on the conceptions of Roland Barthes. A bird’s eye view of culture derived from de Certeau has been employed to decode the details of the hundred-year history of Shuanglian Taipei. The depictions of regime changes in Taiwan, international relations, economic developments, technological advances, literary arts, medical education and ideological evolution clearly explain the shifting of daily practices and social structures. Culture is the representations of experiences from time to time; in other words, the collections of social practices on a daily basis form a local culture. Food symbolizes the rudimentary demand of human lives; so when Michelin recognizes favorite foods to most people, it means traditional dishes and household snacks define an era of dietary art instead of what people feed. Dietary art serves as the main theme of this study that illustrates actual facts of culture such as space, time and phenomenon as well as abstract ones like emotions, sensations and memories. Drastic changes taking place in Shuanglian Taipei have been depicted in this paper by interviews and observations made in this neighborhood. Strolling on the paths, appreciation of the surroundings and experiences gained while interacting with various sites help the readers rediscover the core and essence of its local culture.