移民與族群飲食：以四川省涼山地區彝漢兩族為例

在多族群的移民區域裡，由於受政治、經濟和文化的影響，人們往往會融合族群文化、進而再造飲食文化。在中國西南的涼山彝族地區，出現了一種起源於彝族傳統飲食的「彝族菜」。這些被稱為「彝族菜」的菜系是受後來移入的漢人影響而產生的，這種現象是移民的結果。本文主旨在比較「彝族菜」被再造的前因後果及其前後過程。同時，本文也將介紹和討論有關彝族和當地漢人的傳統飲食文化內容。「彝族菜」的再造過程，是彝族飲食文化的再造過程，也是漢人飲食文化的在地化過程。在此同時，也揭示出彝族文化認同的重新闡釋和重新建構過程。

關鍵字

彝族；涼山；族群飲食；移民；人類學

並列摘要

In regions where there is a lot of migration and a number of ethnic groups, people often take advantage of political, economic and cultural resources to blend the practices of different ethnic groups and re-create their food and foodways. Among the Yi people of Liangshan in southwest China, a new kind of ”Yi cuisine” has appeared, based on the traditional foodways of the Yi. Some of these ”Yi-style dishes” show signs of influence by the Han Chinese who came to this region later. Such phenomena are the result of cultural interaction arising from migration. This article examines the causes and effects of the emergence of these new ”Yi-style foods.” It also describes the traditional food of the Yi and the Han. The creation of new ”Yi-style dishes” can be said to reflect the transformation of the traditional foodways of the Yi, but also represents a local adaptation of Han Chinese foodways. At the same time, this represents a process of re-interpretation of Yi cultural identity.