現代消費文化動力下族群飲食文化的重構：以台灣“客家菜”當代的休閒消費轉型為例

The Reconstruction of Ethnic Food Culture under the Dynamics of Modern Consumer Culture: A Case Study of the Transformation of Taiwan "Hakka Cuisine" into a Form of Leisure Consumption

賴守誠(Shou-Cheng Lai)

《國家與社會》 1期 (2006/12) Pp. 167-212

https://doi.org/10.30174/JSS.200612.0005

摘要

近半個世紀以來，現代化進程的強化與延展，使得在傳統社會文化架構下相對穩定的要素，在當代發展的脈絡中逐步重構而獲得全新的重要地位。食物就是這樣一個別具意義的例子。在現代社會激烈去地域化與時空壓縮的快速推展中，飲食不但逐步成為社會文化力量連作的焦點，並取得了反映社會文化權力關係的顯著關鍵地位。飲食烹飪所潛隱帶有社會、政治與美學的特質，也因此獲得了空前的凸顯。本文將以台灣客家飲食在現狀消費文化脈絡中崛起與轉型的個案為例，說明族群飲食文化在高現代性的社會中如何展開重構。本研究主要運用內容分析法與論述分析法，對有指標性報紙其報導文本的歷史性資料(1951-1999)進行分析，探索「客家菜」在當代台灣社會中是如何在性質上被轉變為一種現代休閒消費的形式。而且特別著重於闡明這種作為休閒消費的客家飲食，在最近二十年是如何逐步被具強大影響力之消費文化的主要動力特徵所穿透。

關鍵字

消費文化 ； 族群飲食 ； 客家菜 ； 休閒消費

並列摘要

Since the 1980s, with the deterritorialization and time-space compression that comes with advanced modernization, the social, political and aesthetic properties potentially associated with cuisine have come to be immensely significant in modem societies. Against this backdrop, food has gradually become a central focus of socio-cultural forces and gained a key position that reflects socio-cultural power relations. In this paper, the case of the rise and transformation of Taiwan ”Hakka cuisine” in the context of modem consumer culture is used as an example to demonstrate how ethnic food culture is reconstructed in the society of high modernity. In order to explore how ”Hakka cuisine” is qualitatively transformed into a form of moddern leisure consumption in contemporary Taiwan, this research sets out to select indicative samples of texts from newspapers published during 1951-1999 in Taiwan and subject these historical materials to content analysis and discourse analysis. And special emphasis is put on how ”Hakka cuisine” as a form of leisure consumption during the past two decades has been increasingly penetrated by powerful dynamics that characterize modem consumer culture.

並列關鍵字

consumer culture ； ethnic food ； Hakka cuisine ； leisure consumption

參考文獻

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