從田畦到餐桌——清代臺灣漢人的農業生產與食物消費

From Farm to Table: Agricultural Production and Food Consumption of the Taiwanese Han during the Qing Dynasty

曾品滄(Tsang-Pin Tseng)

指導教授 ： 黃富三

國立臺灣大學/文學院/歷史學研究所/博士(2006年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2006.03132

摘要

本文主要探討清代臺灣漢人，如何藉由農業生產活動來滋養整個移民社會，及其在此基礎上所形成的食物消費趨向。
主要研究方式有二：一、整體性地觀察，以生產體系的概念來觀察漢人小農生產的運作原理，分析體系內各農業部門的有機整合方式，並探討其在食物資源生產上的特性。二、將清代臺灣不同自然環境下的農業，區分成三種不同的農業生產體系：旱地型、水田型、山地型等，並對不同農業生產體系加以比較分析。藉以了解各體系食物資源取得與利用的共同性與特殊性。
從本文的討論得知，臺灣南部地區的旱地型，中、北部地區的水田型，和淺山地區的山地型，其在食物資源的生產上，皆具有不同的特色，此為構成臺灣各地區食物消費差異的主要原因；其共同點則是食物資源的生產依附於商品作物栽培之下。以具有強烈商品化性格、做為貿易輸出品的蔗、稻及茶做為主要作物。配合主要作物栽培之次要作物和其他農業部門的產物，構成了移民日常生活之基本食物的主要來源。
在消費方面，當這些食料品被轉化成維生性食物，即飯、菜、點心時，農家在炊爨、調理上也是以最節省資源，並能回饋生產體系的方式進行，這種作法將可使維生性食物之消費更進一步降低成本，也促使食物消費活動，和整個農業生產形成更密切聯繫。要言之，移民們不僅是以最低廉的成本，滿足基本食物需求，其食物消費活動也有助於其農業生產獲得最高利潤。
另一方面，漢人移民為了建構人際網絡、保健等需求，重視餐宴的舉辦、祭品的呈獻，並使用大量的嗜好品。因為重視這些高成本的非維生性食物消費活動，不僅大量消耗從農業生產上所獲得的豐厚利潤，也易對移民健康帶來不利的影響。成本低廉的維生性食物消費，與過度耗財之非維生性食物消費的強烈對比，可視為清代臺灣移墾社會之食物消費模式的重要特色。
除此之外，到了清末開港後，隨著一群富有、具品味之新興豪紳的興起，以及食物、食料來源擴大、流通管道增加，臺灣的食物消費開始有精緻化的傾向，一個精緻、具有品味之食物消費風格正在臺灣逐漸形成。

關鍵字

農業生產體系 ； 食物消費 ； 物質生活 ； 漢人移民

並列摘要

Abstract: This dissertation is an exploration of how the Han of the Qing Dynasty in Taiwan nourished an immigrant society through various agricultural developments, and upon this foundation created for a trend of food consumption.

There are two principal methods of research involved in this study: the first is comprehensive observation; using the concept of a production system to observe the principal of production in small Han Chinese farms, analyzing the method of integrated organic farming within this system of agriculture, and exploring the characteristics of its food resource production. Secondly, differentiating three systems of agricultural production in Taiwanese farming during the Qing Dynasty: the non-irrigated model, the paddy field model, and the hilly model, based on comparative analysis of agricultural production systems. This is done for the purpose of understanding various commonalities and particularities of acquisition and utilization of food resources of each model.

Based on the discussion in this text, it will be shown that the production of food resources and their variance in the non-irrigated regions of southern Taiwan, the paddy field regions of the center and the north as well as the low lying hilly mountain regions, constitute the key reasons for differences in food consumption in the each region of the island; thus making the production dependence of food resources on commodity crop cultivation a common ground. After intense disposition towards commercialization of sugar cane, rice, and tea, they became the primary crops used in trade. Coordinating cultivation of primary crops and secondary crops in addition to other agricultural products constituted the main food source for basic foods in the everyday lives of immigrants.

With respect to consumption, as these edibles were transformed into sustainable foods, namely rice, vegetables and dimsum, farmers prepared meals, they plowed the ash from their fires into the land thus replenishing the soil, in addition, they seasoned and salted foods thus preserving them, in this way they went a step further to decrease cost and urge food consumption; in doing so, the entire agricultural system became more closely integrated. In summary, immigrants not only utilized the lowest possible cost, fulfilling basic food demand, their activities of food consumption also enabled the agricultural system to reap high profits.

On the other hand, in order to create an interpersonal network Han immigrants, physical wellbeing and other such demands, placed emphasis on holding banquets, the presentation of sacrificial offerings, and the wide use of addictive substances. Because they placed importance on cash crops, and non-sustainable agriculture, they not only largely consumed rich profits acquired in agricultural production, but also adversely affected the health of the immigrants. Low cost of sustainable food consumption, in sharp contrast to the excessive waste of land in non-sustainable food consumption, can be regarded as the significant feature for the agricultural societal shift in the pattern of food consumption during the Qing dynasty in Taiwan.

In addition, towards the end of the Qing as ports were opened to more foreign imports, accompanying a general rise in affluence, the tastes of the rising gentry, the expansion of sources of general foodstuffs, and increase in trade, Taiwanese foods began a tendency towards the exquisite; one of delicacies, gradually creating a refined style of food consumption in Taiwan.

並列關鍵字

Agricultural Production System ； Food Consumption ； Material Life ； Han Immigrants

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