唐魯孫飲食散文研究

賴孟潔(Meng-Chieh Lai)

指導教授 ： 葉振富

國立中央大學/文學院/中國文學系碩士在職專班/碩士(2006年)

摘要

摘 要

　　九○年代文壇吹起一股飲食文學風潮，許多知名創作家紛紛提筆記錄童年、情慾、懷鄉的飲食書寫，不得不令人想到一位已故的老作家─「唐魯孫」。唐魯孫從一九七四年發表於聯合報的第一篇「吃在北平」飲食文章，引起遷台人士一陣以飲食書寫懷鄉，後唐魯孫在不間斷的創作之下，十餘年的時間共累積了百萬餘字，於謝世後由大地出版社出版共十二本的唐魯孫飲食全集。
　　本研究首先以唐魯孫的飲食散文為主要的研究對象，以文本的內容分析貫穿全文，因其飲食書寫範圍涵蓋了清末到民初再到台灣的時代飲食變化，從歷史的宏觀中，從古至今的幾千年裡飲食文化受到儒家影響甚為深遠，到清代滿漢以及四方融合的因素，飲食越趨蓬勃，而後因政治因素跟著遷台的唐魯孫看到台灣飲食文化狀況，書寫於文本中成為飲食文化第一手資料。
　　其次，唐魯孫透過文本不斷的釋出懷鄉的情愫，幾十年無法如願踏上歸途，唐魯孫試圖用飲食書寫，重新懷想二○、三○年代的北平，飲食書寫裡散發出濃濃的鄉愁，藉以透過想像與集體記憶的方式企圖還原當年代的北平意象。
　　最後，除了透過唐魯孫的文本探討台灣飲食狀況，同時也說明唐魯孫的飲食散文乃開風氣之先，引發後續逯耀東、梁實秋以及近代各種不同的飲食文學書寫風格，也因此奠定唐魯孫在飲食文學領域的重要地位。不管在各種飲食場合中，都不忘提到唐魯孫的鄉愁式飲食散文。

關鍵字

懷鄉 ； 台灣文學 ； 唐魯孫 ； 飲食文學 ； 懷舊

並列摘要

Abstract

In 1990’s, the composition of Eat and Drink literature became popular among those people who were in the literacy circle. Several well-known writers put into words what they have eaten and drunk in their lives for the purpose of reminiscing childhood, showing passion to their hometown, and nostalgic expression. Among them, the diseased writer Tang Lu-Sun was one of the representative figures. He introduced this topic by publishing the article Dining in Bei-ping at the UDN Literature in 1974, which represented the onset of this hit of Eat and Drink literature. In the next 10 years or so, he devoted himself to the writing related to the Eat and Drink literature. Recently, his works are presented 12 volumes entitled “The complete works of Tang Lu-Sun” which are published by Da-Di Publisher after he passed away.
In addition, Tang Lu-Sun kept expressing the nostalgic feeling by continuously putting what he ate and drank into words at Bei-ping back in 1920’s and 1930’s. Unable to return home in Bei-Ping for the past several decades, he tried to restore the original image of Bei-Ping by means of imagine (from the limited memory) and the collective memory. This makes his work filled with the recollection of Bei-Ping in his childhood.
Finally, I discussed the contemporary dining condition in Taiwan, which was also mentioned in Tang Lu-Sun’s works. On top of that, this study emphasized that Tang Lu-Sun represented as the leading figure in this field. Several followers, such as Liang Shi-Chiu, Lu Yao-dong, and others, all created their own works based on Tang Lu-Sun’s well-established format. Nowadays, the Nostalgic Eat and Drink Literature is created in the memory of Tang Lu-Sun.

並列關鍵字

Taiwan Literature ； Tang Lu-Sun ； Eat and Drink Literature ； Nostalgia

參考文獻

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