鮮味與權力－海鮮在唐宋轉型期的位置

Freshness and Power: Seafood in the Tang-Song Transition

易素梅(Sumei YI)

《歷史人類學學刊》 15卷1期 (2017/04) Pp. 1-52

摘要

唐宋時人熱衷於呈現海鮮的多重意象：從名不見經傳的方物到沿海州縣地方志必載的物產，從不知名狀的怪食到眾相誇口的市井美食、文人雅士的談資，從蠻夷、賤民的陋食到士人間流行的禮物、御宴上的佳餚，從異域珍奇到中國菜式，從南食到京味。變化的眾海鮮相其實折射出唐宋社會文化與士人認知體系的轉型。這一轉型涉及多種性質的空間移動（南北、城鄉、央地、海陸）以及其間權力關係網絡的構築，因而也與「勝利者言說」造成的虛空密切相關。

關鍵字

物質文化 ； 城市文化 ； 地方史 ； 海鮮 ； 知識

並列摘要

The Tang-Song period passion for seafood is evident from the range of different representations: from tributary items not mentioned in the classical texts to the products recorded in local gazetteers of coastal regions; from the strangeness of unknown foods to the delicacies of the market that were a subject of elite conversation; from the rough food of non-Chinese ＂barbarians＂ and the lower classes to the gifts that circulated among the elite and the fine dishes at the imperial table; from exotic foreign luxuries to Chinese home-cooking; from the cuisine of the south to the tastes of the capital. Changing images of seafood reflect cultural changes and transformations in orders of knowledge during the Tang and Song. This transformation involved different kinds of spatial mobility between north and south, urban and rural, central and local, maritime and terrestrial. It also involved constructions of relations of power within these spaces, and therefore were closely related to hegemonic discourse.

並列關鍵字

Tang-Song period ； material culture ； urban culture ； local history ； seafood ； knowledge