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Living a Dream Life: Creating an Image of a Cookbook Author in Early 2000s Russia
夢想生活家：俄羅斯二十一世紀初食譜作家的形象營造
摘要
An unprecedented surge in lifestyle literature marked the early 2000s in Russia. Symptomatic of this phenomenon was an extraordinary outpour of lifestyle journals, blogs, and TV shows. One aspect of this new literature was a novel interest in food culture. This new food culture was supposed to be one of the many Western habits that new Russia had to incorporate to become a globalized country after years of isolation. If, on the one hand, the 1990s were a time to learn how to behave with new money, the 2000s and early 2010s, on the other hand, would be the time to learn how to spend it in style. Together with fashion magazines, foreign movies, books, and TV series, cookbooks and gastronomic magazines became the new textbooks of Western lifestyle. One of the distinguishing features of this novel culinary discourse was the significance of the culinary text's author: a professional chef or a celebrity, a popular columnist or a historian, basically anyone who could offer their audience some new authentic knowledge. Among the numerous books published then, Anahit Piruzyan's book Elle: Cooking Diary: Stories with Recipes (Elle: Кулинарный дневник. Истории с рецептами) stands out. She chooses an unusual strategy for her traditionally (and primarily) didactic culinary discourse: she published not just recipes or even recipes with history but rather stories with recipes. Recipes as cooking manuals became secondary in comparison with the self-presentation of the author, who was a successful culinary columnist, an expert on bourgeois American culinary culture, and a so-called Global Russian who could now be described as an influencer in a pre-influencer era who created an image of the ideal modern woman of the 2000s and thereby attracted the broad attention of the female audience of Elle fashion magazine. In this article, I aim to answer what and how she talks about herself to gain the trust and interest of her readers, how she pictures herself as a culinary enthusiast, and what makes her so unique among other cookbook authors of the same time.
並列摘要
二十一世紀初期，俄羅斯出現前所未見的生活風格文學，各種生活風格之書寫傾巢而出，包括日記、部落格、電視節目等等；歷經多年的孤立之後，俄羅斯為了加入全球化國家之列，必須在日常生活中吸納西方事物，其中飲食文化尤其成為新俄羅斯必須學習的項目之一。若說二十世紀的九零年代，俄國人得學習管理新財富，那麼二十一世紀初期的二十年，俄國人轉而學習如何花錢經營生活風格；若說流行雜誌、外國新電影、書、電視影集引領西方文化進入俄羅斯，那麼食譜與美食雜誌儼然成為西方生活風格的教科書，開拓了飲食料理論述。這時期最具獨特之處在於飲食料理書寫的作家本身，可以是知名廚師、名人，可以是受歡迎的專欄作家、美食方面的史學家，只要能提供讀者新的、罕見的真知灼見。眾多出版書籍之中，以阿奈特．皮魯齊揚（Анаит Пирузян）的作品《她：料理日誌，食譜故事》最為突出，原本只是傳統教導取向的烹飪書寫，作者卻採取超乎尋常寫作策略，不僅書寫食譜或食譜的歷史，更書寫環繞於食譜的小故事，取代了烹飪食譜本身的重要性；尤其，作者的自我呈現營造二十一世紀完美的現代女性形象：成功的美食專欄作家、美國布爾喬亞飲食文化的專家、全球化的新俄羅斯人等多重身分，一個網紅世代出現之前便具有影響力的人物，以此吸引流行雜誌《她》的主要女性讀者。本論文希冀探討飲食書寫的作者阿奈特．皮魯齊揚如何談論自己，又談了甚麼內容，方能贏得讀者的信任與興趣，作者如何營造自己熱衷於美食料理的形象，而相較於其他同時期食譜書寫的作家，又是哪些特質讓阿奈特．皮魯齊揚與眾不同。