- 期刊
阻特裝與非裔美國人街頭服飾探討
A Study of "Zoot Suit" and Africa American Street Styles
摘要
每個人對外觀重視的程度不同，從個人或社會的角度來看，黑人被認為是十分注意服飾外觀，他們會利用服裝來表達並突顯自己，籍此傳達社會訴求。40年代出現了一種流行於美國非洲裔年輕人之間的一種服裝風格稱為「阻特裝」(Zoot Suit)，這種非主流的另類男裝風潮在當時深受美國非裔青少年的喜愛；而現今同樣由非裔美國人帶動「嘻哈」服裝也在台灣甚至全世界年輕族群中形成一服熱潮，這些現象反映出現今街頭流行服裝與切年代美國黑人的阻特裝之發展有著密不可分的關係。本研究的主要目的是針對非裔美國人所帶動的服裝流行風潮，探討青少年街頭次文化之發展與形成脈絡，並進一步分析美國黑人所穿著的街頭服飾如何從社會抗爭的表達與訴求演變成廣受歡迎的青少年街頭服飾並進不影響主流服裝的過程。
並列摘要
Everyone has different viewpoints about their appearance in every society. Clothing plays a significant role for Africa American, because it was a media for them to express themselves or to convey messages in a social context. ”Zoot Suit”, appeared in the 1940s, was a popular men's wear among young African American. Nowadays, ”Hip Hop” fashion dominated by young African American is also a popular street style among the youth throughout the world. The phenomenon of subculture fashion dominated by young African American reflected the interesting relationship between ”Zoot suit” and the ”Hip Hot” style. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to explore the development of subculture street style and the appearance management behavior among young African American and to analyze the process of its influences on mainstream fashion.