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九○年代落拓風街頭服裝探討

A Study of Grunge Street Style

摘要


本研究的主要目的是探討興起於90年代初期「落拓風」(Grunge)街頭服裝的發展脈絡,並了解青少年如何透過街頭服裝與音樂來表達生活態度與自我,試圖分析屬於落拓風獨特的服裝流行元素,包含造型輪廓、服飾單品、色彩、髮型以及這種另類服裝對主流服裝的影響。以西元1992年為起點迄今為研究範圍,採用文獻資料蒐集法為主。研究結果發現落拓風事實上是一種結合嬉皮與龐克服裝的70年代復古風貌再現。在造形上,落拓風以超大或極窄的服裝做多層次的混搭與亂序的組合,呼應解構主義的精神與後現代設計美學。在色彩上,以渾濁感的色調為主;在髮型上,凌亂未經梳理的頭髮反而被視為展現個人獨特個性的方式。另外,落拓風崇尚穿著二手衣的風潮也帶動90年代設計師的作品以環保概念做為創作主題。

並列摘要


The purposes of this study are to explore the development of ”Grunge” Style in the 1990s, to understand how the youth convey their identity and life attitude through clothing, and to analyze its influence on mainstream fashion. Research results indicate that Grunge is a revival style combined from subculture Hippie and Punk style in the early 1970s. In style, Grunge is mostly found in persons wearing over-and undersized items bought from second-hand shop. More specifically, the layering clothing and mixing styles used by Grunge proponents demonstrate the deconstruction spirit and postmodern aesthetics. With respect to color and hair style, Grunger frequently wear muddy tones to present the tattered look, and its lank hair in a disordered way shows a sense of individuality. Besides, second-hand clothing used by the Grunger inspired the 1990's designers to incorporate environmental protection issue into their elements of design.

被引用紀錄


黃俊銘(2013)。利用鈀金屬催化進行碳氫鍵活化合成芴酮〔碩士論文,淡江大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6846/TKU.2013.00526
Wang, S. H. (2012). 使用光交換機與光纖延遲線建造先進先出光佇列 [master's thesis, National Tsing Hua University]. Airiti Library. https://doi.org/10.6843/NTHU.2012.00564
林盛勳(2011)。新多苯環材料合成與應用以及高效率有機發光二極體之開發研究〔博士論文,國立清華大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6843/NTHU.2011.00219
陳麗真(2014)。以東西方服飾元素探討文化背景對衣著偏好之影響〔碩士論文,中原大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6840/cycu201400352
Hsu, C. H. (2010). 白光發光二極體之新穎螢光材料製備及螢光特性分析 [doctoral dissertation, National Taiwan University]. Airiti Library. https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2010.00726

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