天然藍靛與蘇木於不同染色方式復染時色彩表現之探討

The investigation on the different colors performance of re-dyeing between Natural Indigo and Sapan Wood Dyeing

林青玫(C. M. Lin) ； 蕭靜芬(C. F. Hsiao) ； 林卿慧(C. H. Lin)

《華岡紡織期刊》 23卷1期 (2016/01) Pp. 27-37

摘要

天然染料色彩的呈現會因生長環境及氣候等眾多因素的影響有所差異，與化學染料最大差別在於其成份複雜，而且無法如顏料三原色般精準地調和出各種顏色，然數千年來先民已累積深厚的染色工藝技術，並透過不同套色復染的方式，染出豐富的色彩。本研究即以《天工開物》記載之藍靛套染方法為主，藉由了解傳統天然藍靛、蘇木染料之特性，重新檢視染色工序的各項因素，透過實際操作，探討在染料濃度相同的情況下，以相同的材質與染色次數，在不同的方式時進行復染，找出最佳的染色方式，進而增加天然藍靛染色色彩之豐富性。

關鍵字

天然藍靛 ； 蘇木 ； 天然開工 ； 復染色彩

並列摘要

Natural dyes are extracted from the plants and animals that the colors will present in different ways due to the climate, the environments and the other factors. The biggest difference between the chemical dying materials and natural dying materials as its composition, it complex and difficult to color harmony as the three primary pigments. The ancients have invention by the chromatic stained which it can offer variety of colors. However, some colors can not get from the plants, such as green or purple. In this study, we focus on the method from the record of ＂Exploitation of the works of Nature＂, the characterization of using indigo and sapan wood dyeing. In order to explore in the same dye concentration under the circumstances, by re-examine all the factors in the dyeing process, used the same materials and dyeing periods in different methods while chromatic stained. Finding the best way of the indigo dye, thus it will to increase the color richness of natural indigo.

並列關鍵字

Material Indigo ； Sapan Wood Dyeing ； Exploitation of the Works of Nature ； Redyeing Colorharmang