明清時期的飲食豐富,肉品食用也漸趨多樣,其中對於牛肉的食用與烹調,亦見於各類飲膳書籍與食譜之中。牛隻於傳統社會的主要功能,著重在農地耕作與糧食生產,所以歷代對於牛隻的宰殺多有限制,然而食用牛肉的行為,從先秦以來即有跡可尋,更廣泛涉及祭祀、宗教、經濟、飲食等各層面。明清以來,在飲食文化的呈現上,開始追求不同的飲食享受,而成為餐桌上的美味飲食,呈現在《多能鄙事》、《竹嶼山房雜部》、《群物奇制》、《閒情偶寄》、《隨園食單》等各種食譜文類的烹調記載。除了經濟需求之外,還涉及了飲食、醫療、養生等多重的文化意涵。然而,面對牛肉的食用,除了飲食、口味的追求之外,可能需要面對道德、宗教等價值觀的批評。因此,本文嘗試從飲食、養生、宗教、日常生活等角度,探討牛肉食用在明清地方社會所形成的風氣,背後多樣思想與文化意涵,以及價值觀的衝突與調和,進而探討社會整體環境的影響與互動。
Diverse food culture and cooking in the local society of the Ming and Qing China. The main function of cattle is farming and food production in traditional society. There have been many restrictions on the slaughter of cattle in the past. There were had the habit of eating beef and including sacrifices, religion, economy, diet in the early China. Especially the sacrifice "Tai-lao"(太牢禮) of early religions. Since the Ming and Qing China, the local society has been richer and has begun to pursue different sensory enjoyment. Beef diet not only becomes delicacies, but also involves multiple meanings such as meat ritual, dietary sacrifice, dietary taboo, healthy consideration. However, some opponents think that eating beef is incorrect, immoral, uncompassionate andstrict criticism. Therefore, this article attempts to discuss the beef consumption from the perspectives of sacrifice, religion, diet, and health of the local society in the Ming and Qing. Further understanding the conflicts and reconciliation of values and the impact of the social environment.