美容科技保養乳液於保濕應用之研究－以「醣基神經醯胺」為例

醫學美容為新世紀最熱門的美容型態代名詞，而其衍生出的美容科技保養品，更是在知識爆發的時代顛覆了愛美人士對傳統保養品成份的觀念，進而引發對於美容科技相關成份之探究。本實驗主要以市售醫美級乳液成份中「「醣基神經醯胺」」之不同濃度（0 wt%、1 wt%、2 wt%、3 wt%）對於乳液之物性影響之研究。實驗結果得知，在黏度測試中，不含「醣基神經醯胺」之乳液為非線性塑性流體，其黏度範圍在402～6525cP，含有「醣基神經醯胺」之乳液為剪切變稀型流體，其黏度範圍在54～1385cP，當乳液添加「醣基神經醯胺」時，乳液黏度會有顯著的下降；離心安定性結果得知，所有乳液於3000rpm離心30分鐘後皆無分層現象；由水份散失實驗結果得知，「醣基神經醯胺」可使乳液具有良好的保濕性，並同時可搭配其他保濕劑。本研究期望可提供使用「醣基神經醯胺」之成份設計乳液配方時之參考。

關鍵字

美容科技保養品；醣基神經醯胺；黏度；安定性；保濕

並列摘要

＂Medical Cosmetic＂ is the is the emerging market-oriented for cosmetic product. With the changing times and Technological progress, many people would like to study constituent in ＂Esthetic Science Emulsion＂ product are derived from Medical Cosmetic. In this study, the effects of physical properties to different concentration ＂glycosyl ceramide＂ ( 0 wt%、1 wt%、2 wt%、3 wt%) in the Esthetic Science Emulsion . In addition, the viscosity of emulsions decreased obviously when the emulsions contain glycosyl ceramide. The centrifugal stability results showed all emulsions had stability by centrifugal condition 3000rpm and 30mins. The water loss experiment showed that the glycosyl ceramide gave the emulsion the better ability of moisturizing and could cooperate with other humectants. It is a good policy to take a reference of this study to develop the application of the glycosyl ceramide on emulsion formulation.