地方美食展演的再解讀－以爌肉飯與彰化爌肉飯節之行銷為例

中華郵政在2013年發行的「滷肉飯郵票」意外引發滷肉飯意象的南北大戰。論者批判以北部中心論所持的「滷肉飯即是肉臊飯」觀點；但對南部而言，滷肉飯卻是以燉三層肉為主體的小吃。此兩者的認知差距也反映出了台灣南北對於食物想像的不同。然而，位在中部的彰化地區，在以肉圓等小吃而聞名的彰化市，焢肉飯（「炕肉」或爌肉）似乎無涉於此一南北爭執而有著其獨自的名稱存在。相較於同為彰化特色地方小吃的肉圓，焢肉飯卻常因三層肉的油膩而有著與講求健康的現代社會背道而馳的意象。在教育部閩南語常用詞辭典中「炕」意謂「以慢火久煮」，「炕」這種烹飪法所象徵之緩慢變化的過程，往往也是地方文化得以生根、甚至於深化的重要因素。然而，彰化縣政府在地方美食節（焢肉飯節）的推廣策略上卻忽略在地脈絡，改以可量化的「份量」為追求目標去製作能供千人享用的破金氏紀錄爌肉飯。本文由「炕肉還是炕文化？」此一提問出發來探討地方特色小吃在觀光化、節慶化背後可能面對的問題。透過文本、民族誌及媒體建構的焢肉飯意象的分析，筆者檢視了焢肉飯作為彰化在地特色小吃及其推展的過程。焢肉飯所呈現在現代台灣飲食的一連串意義轉變恰巧反映出當代台灣飲食研究中需要被關注的重要問題，焢肉飯的美食操作正似一個飲食風潮轉變的縮影，讓我們得以重新思考美食自身及其在「傳統」、「懷舊」、「地方性」等論述在其中所扮演的重要角色。

關鍵字

彰化爌肉飯節；美食展演；在地飲食；文化觀光

並列摘要

The Chunghwa Post's first cover of ＂Taiwan local cuisine＂ has unexpectedly brought an intriguing debate between two camps of stamp collectors from southern and northern Taiwan. The debate arises over how Taiwanese people perceive ＂lurou fan＂（滷肉飯）differently. Residents of the Taipei area tend to regard ＂lurou fan＂ as ＂soy-stewed sliced pork rice＂ while the southerners regard it as ＂soy- stewed pork with rice.＂ However, a rather different name of ＂kuangrou fan＂（焢肉飯） is given to ＂soy-stewed pork with rice＂ in mid-Taiwan, where people may consider this debate inconsequential. Intriguingly, the word ＂kuang＂（焢）or ＂kang＂（炕）refers to cooking methods of ＂stewing or braising,＂ which coincidently associate with cultural theorists and anthropologists' emphasis on ＂cultural factors that transform over time.＂ Following this point, the author traces ethnographic, textual, and media representations of ＂kuangrou fan＂ as a local dishes in Changhua and explores how it has become the spotlight of the annual ＂kuangrou fan festival.＂