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物、家、主權與邊界:一個排灣族老人農地的民族誌

Food, Home, Sovereignty and Edge: an ethnography on a Paiwan grandmother's foodscape

摘要


在極端氣候與資源不穩定的瀕危世代,掌握食物主權為確保生存自由與文化延續的重要議題。這篇民族誌聚焦於一位排灣族老人與她所耕作的混作田。透過爬梳她生命中的食物與農地裡的作物,嘗試理解食物與家、主權和邊界的關係,藉此闡述人類世(Anthropocene)下混亂與共生的在地範式,並且試圖探討:台坂(Tjuaqau)部落的排灣族人如何透過pinaljacengan和cinavu兩種食物實踐與延續家的概念?在經歷殖民政治與資本主義的介入後,食物又如何作為排灣族人維繫情感與象徵文化認同的媒介?而上述食物、家和主權的關係,又是如何透過農作物具象於田地裡的各種邊界當中?在飲食習慣與農耕模式因資本消費市場逐漸趨同的今天,探究排灣族vuvu的混作田之耕作邏輯,恰當提醒我們在地食物生產系統與文化鑲嵌性的一體兩面。以多物種民族誌為理論基礎,本文建構混作田的社會性,希望能為邊界中混亂所帶來的不適感賦予更多元的想像,並從中看見食物主權與多物種地景的共生實踐。

並列摘要


In the current era of extreme climate change and resource instability, food security is crucial to ensuring freedom and cultural continuity. This ethnography focuses on an elderly Paiwan farmer (vuvu) and her intercropping foodscape. By exploring her lifelong experience with food and crops, it attempts to understand the multifaceted relationships between food, home, sovereignty and the concept of edges, and to articulate a local paradigm of coexistence in the Anthropocene. The paper also seeks to investigate how members of Tjuaqau Paiwan community practice and pass on the concept of home through iconic Paiwan foods like pinuljacengan and cinavu. Furthermore, it examines how eating pinuljacengan is a way for Paiwan people to establish relationship, and how Paiwan communities across Taiwan come together through cinavu. The paper also explores how the aforementioned relationships between food, home, and sovereignty physically manifest themselves within the edges of the foodscape. In today's world, where dietary choices and food production are increasingly homogenized by market economies, examining vuvu's multispecies farm serves as a reminder that local food production systems are always culturally embedded. It is this multispecies worldview that enables us to envision a food-secured future where human coexist with other living and non-living things and where we can find hopes in the discomforting edges.

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