論宋代「鬥茶」茶俗－以宋代茶書為主的探討

茶風熾盛的宋代，不僅茶書文獻大量出現，也在全國上下紛紛專研點茶鬥試的茶藝競技中，迅速發展出宋代亮麗獨特的茶俗活動－鬥茶。然而歷來研究茶書文獻或｢鬥茶｣茶俗者，鮮見能予以結合關注，開發運用。是以，從茶書文獻切入，是研究｢鬥茶｣茶俗的重要角度。目前兩岸有關宋代｢鬥茶｣茶俗的相關研究，大部皆從詩詞或藝術視角著眼，甚少以宋代茶書的視角研究，偶有探討，亦非專論，誠有再開拓的空間。因之，本文以宋代茶書文獻為主要文本，採質化研究，運用歷史文獻回顧法進行研究，旨在呈現宋代獨特的茶俗技藝－「鬥茶」。文分三點論述：一、鬥茶的源起與鼎盛；二、宋代的鬥茶－茶品、茶具、程序、勝負要訣等的介紹；三、宋代鬥茶風俗的沒落與轉變。研究發現：宋代鬥茶茶俗，在宋代茶書的視角中見證其風華歲月，鬥試過程中，茶品、茶具、程序的掌握與勝負要訣的拿捏等，皆是關鍵，雖其後逐漸失去高雅深厚的文化內蘊，然，鬥茶，在宋代茶文化的地位仍有其不容掩蓋的光芒。

關鍵字

鬥茶；點茶；茶俗；茶書；茶文化

並列摘要

A plethora of tea works of literature were produced during the Song dynasty. Contests for tea skills were held nationwide and thus resulted in a unique tea drinking cultural activity-tea competitions. Tea works of literature and tea competition culture have rarely been simultaneously integrated and addressed. It is significant to carry out research in tea competition culture from the perspective of tea documents and works of literature. Currently, all related research in tea competition culture has been mostly based on the perspective of poems, cis and art. Little research has been focused upon tea works of literature in the Song dynasty. There is room for further research from the angle of tea works of literature in the Song dynasty. Therefore, based on tea works of literature during the Song dynasty, qualitative methodology was employed and historic literature was also reviewed in this research to present the unique tea culture and customs-tea competitions. The paper includes the following (1) the rise and the peak of popularity in tea competition; (2) the introduction of tea competition during the Song dynasty-tea classification, tea ware, tea brewing procedures, and tips to win competitions; and (3) the decline in popularity of tea competitions and their transformation. The study found that the elegance of tea competition culture was exhibited in the tea works of literature during the Song dynasty and that kinds of tea leaves, tea sets, and tea making process were the essential keys to win the competition. The elegant profound cultural significance gradually disappeared. However, the tea competition culture during the Song Dynasty still has an assured place in history.