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丁二醇促進維生素C磷酸鎂鹽之經皮傳輸與功效性評估

Effects of 1,3-Butylene Glycol in Transdermal Delivery and EfficacyEnhancement of Magnesium Ascobyl Phosphate

摘要


本研究自製含維生素C磷酸錶鹽(Magne s ium Ascorbyl Phosphate, MAP)之精華液配方,並探討添加20%丁二醇(1, 3-Butylene Glycol, 1,3-BG)促透劑對於經皮傳輸與化妝品功效性之影響,研究分別以in vitro與in vivo方式進行。使用Franz-type擴散槽的In vitro經皮傳輸實驗結果顯示,配方A(含丁二醇)穿透率414.35μg/cm^2˙hr比配方B(未含丁二醇)351 74 35μg/cm^2 ˙hr高,1小時後的穿透比率分別為施藥原始量之1.6 5 %與0.8 9 %,證明丁二醇對維生素C磷酸鎂鹽具有促透效果。使用表皮水分測定儀與黑紅色素測定儀,In vivo探究丁二醇對維生素C磷酸錶鹽保溼與美白功效影響的實驗結果顯示,在13位受試者使用1小時的短效測試中,表皮水分含量方面,配方A使皮膚水含量提高3.15 %,配方B水分含量無明顯差異。配方A使黑色素量減少2.04 %,配方B使皮膚黑色素量減少0.46%,表示維生素C磷酸錶鹽對於黑色素有抑制效果。在皮膚紅色素方面,配方B使皮膚紅色素量提高6.57%,配方A能使紅色素量減少2.20%,表示添加丁二醇增加維生素C磷酸錶鹽之美白功效3.4倍,並可捉弄保溼作用、舒緩維生素C磷酸錶鹽所引起之輕微刺激性紅斑現象。

並列摘要


A self-made MAP serum with 1,3-BG penetration enhancer was prepared and investigated by transdermal delivery analysis and in vivo efficacy evaluation. The transdermal delivery profiles were determined in vitro using a Franz type diffusion cell and a pig skin membrane. The results showed higher transdermal flux (414.35 μg/cm^2˙hr) and shorter lag time (0.17 hr) for the tested serum with a 1, 3-BG ingredient compared to a control which had no added 1, 3-BG. The presence of 1, 3-BG in the tested serum influenced the in vitro MAP transdermal delivery profiles.In 13 subjects, stratum corneum water content was determined by corneometry, and skin color and skin irritation was evaluated by use of the Mexameter. A 3.15 % increase in skin hydration was provided by the serum with enhancer, but no difference was observed from the serum without 1, 3-BG enhancer. The decrease of skin melanin content was about 2.04 % by the tested serum and 0.46 % by the control. Both provided a skin whitening effect, and the tested serum was also capable of providing some antiirritant efficacy for the MAP.

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