- 期刊
- OpenAccess
日本鮪魚生魚片文化對台灣之影響
The Influence of Japanese Tuna Sashimi Culture on Taiwan
摘要
人類的飲食文化史上，將新鮮獸、鳥、魚等獵物的肉切下直接生食，是共同的發展經歷。隨著文明的進化及衛生觀念的提升，生食文化的保留與廢除，取決於各民族文化對食物水準的追求。中國在古代即有生食魚、肉的習慣，到了明清時期，生食已經不再是中國食文化中的主流。在漢族文化圈內，生食逐漸被視為野蠻、原始未開化的象徵。隨著明清時期漢人逐漸移民台灣，熟食文明之觀念也傳入台灣。甲午戰爭後，日本人將鮪魚生魚片文化傳至台灣。日本統治台灣初期，台人仍將生魚片文化視為野蠻習俗，難以接受。歷經五十年的統治，從光復後政府對日本文化的排斥，到1980年以來的影劇哈日風潮，甚至2000年以來的東港黑鮪季，近幾年來超低溫冷凍鮪魚連鎖店的出現，生魚片文化隨著鮪魚產業的興盛、漁業科技的進步，在台灣有了繁複的變化。本文從日本生魚片文化之起源、捕鮪魚的歷史出發，考察史料及文獻，探討台灣鮪魚文化的發展進路，歸結出台灣與日本在生魚片文化上的緊密關係及其意義。
並列摘要
Cutting and eating fresh meat of preys such as animals, birds and fish are common experience in the history of human food culture. The advancement of civilization and the promotion of hygienic concepts bring up the issue of the conservation and abolishment of eating fresh meat, and the conclusion depends on different races' food requirements.The habit of eating fresh meat exited in ancient China, but in Ming and Qing Dynasties fresh meat was not the main stream in Chinese food culture anymore. In the region dominated by the Han, fresh meat is the symbol of salvage and uncivilized. The migration of the Chinese to Taiwan in the Ming and Qing Dynasties brought the concept of eating cooked meat to Taiwan with them. After the First Sino-Japanese War, the Japanese brought the culture of eating tuna sashimi to Taiwan. In the early period of Japanese domination, Taiwanese still considered eating sashimi as a salvage custom and could barely accept it. After fifty-year domination, sashimi culture went through a series of complicated changes from the resistance of Japanese culture to the enthusiast about Japan in the 1980s and the blue-fin tuna festival in Donggang township in 2000 and the existence of chain stores that feature frozen tuna in recent years as tuna industry prospers and fishing technology advances.This essay is based on the origin of Japanese sashimi culture and the history of tuna fishing, and examines materials and texts to discuss the path of tuna culture in Taiwan and then concludes with the close relationship between Taiwanese and Japanese tuna culture and its meaning.