- 期刊
魏晉南北朝南北飲食差異及其論述意涵
Dietary Differences between the south and the north and the Discourse Meanings in the Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties
摘要
魏晉南北朝政治局勢分裂，西北邊疆各民族不斷向中原遷移，建立起十六國胡族政權，同時將原有的飲食文化帶進。由於南北地形氣候等自然條件差異，利於不同動、植物的生長，成為南北飲食文化分歧的根源；胡族生活習慣和烹調方式迥異，雖開創出專屬食肉飲酪的特色，卻與南方漢族食膾飲茶的傳統大相逕庭。隨著南北政權局勢的變化發展，彼此往來和接觸的機會日多，飲食差異所引發的問題不斷發生，各自發展出特有的飲食習慣、文化與現象，且為時人熱衷討論議題和書寫題材。根據有關史書和筆記作品顯示，其論述多是出於本位意識地批駁異己，隱含政治爭奪下的成王敗寇結果；或藉由訴說和追尋家鄉美味歷程，意蘊本身對故鄉／故國的想念。另一方面，隨著南北互動日益頻繁，飲食習慣相互影響，原本各自推崇、不為他族認可的飲食，也隨著政治社會融合而逐漸被接納，成為彼此包容的見證。
並列摘要
During the Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, the political splitting made peoples in northwestern frontier constantly move toward central plains. The sixteen kingdoms were established by Hu nationality regime, and the original dietary culture was also introduced. The differences on natural condition such as topography and climate between the south and the north were advantageous to the growth of different animals and plants, and they became the sources of the dietary culture divergence between the south and the north. The life habits and cooking methods of Hu peoples were widely different, and although they created their exclusive characteristic of eating meat and drinking junket, they were quite different from southern Han people's tradition of eating meat slice and drinking tea. As the changing and developing of regime situation in the south and the north, the opportunity for both sides to communicate and contact was gradually increasing, and conflicts caused by dietary differences kept occurring. They developed their unique dietary habits, culture, and phenomenon respectively, which were popular discussion issues and writing themes for people at that time. According to the history records and notes works, the discourses were mainly to criticize dissenters out of egocentric consciousness, and they implied the result that the winner took all in the political battle. Also, through the course of relating and pursuing hometown delicacy, they conveyed their yearning for hometown or homeland. On the other hand, the contacts between the south and the north gradually increased, and the dietary habits mutually interacted. The diets that originally praised only by one side and not approved by the other side were gradually accepted as the integration of politics and society, which became the evidence of mutual tolerance.