旗袍和祺袍稱謂考證及其三種形態

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From ＂Under-robe＂ to ＂Kei Robe＂

朱博偉(Bo-Wei Zhu) ； 劉瑞璞(Rui-Pu Liu)

《實踐設計學報》 9期 (2015/11) Pp. 160-179

摘要

旗袍早已成為華人世界理念上的國服，其稱謂和形態在過去百年間並非一成不變的，它經歷了襯衣—旗袍（改良旗袍）—祺袍三個階段性的變化。從旗袍到祺袍，對傳統“十字型平面結構”的顛覆在中華近現代服裝史中具有里程碑的意義，但學術上並沒有對此進行系統的梳理，陸台學術界尚存不同的觀點。本文通過歷史事實、文獻和台灣地區學術狀況的考證，探索從襯衣到祺袍稱謂及其三種形態的變化過程，這對認識代表從清末民國到建國這段服裝史論的斷代研究具有標誌性意義。

關鍵字

旗袍 ； 祺袍 ； 改良旗袍 ； 三種形態

並列摘要

Cheongsam has already become Chinese national apparel beyond world philosophy. The name ＂cheongsam＂ is not a name that is born with. Over the past 100 years, it underwent three periodical changes, namely under-robe → cheongsam (improved cheongsam) → kei robe. The evolution from ＂cheongsam＂ to ＂kei robe'＂ is a landmark in China's modern costume history, because it overturned the traditional ＂cross planar construction.＂ However, the academic world has not conduct a systematic summary of the situation. Scholars in Mainland China and Taiwan have not yet achieved an agreement. Based on the review of historical facts, literatures and academic study in Taiwan, this paper explores the process and three forms of the change from ＂Under-robe＂ to ＂kei robe,＂ which is of vital significance to the periodical costume historical study from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China and to the establishment of a new China.

並列關鍵字

Cheongsam ； Kei Robe ； Improved cheongsam ； Change from ＂Under-robe＂ to ＂Kei robe＂