- 期刊
文本間的服裝－聚焦《紅樓夢》林黛玉的創作之研究
A costume design in textual of classic novels-The study of Chinese Costume of Lin Daiyu in《Dream of Red Mansions》
摘要
當代服飾產業更需思考的課題為－為新世代提供適當的產品，「物質主義」已漸走向「後物質主義」，將服裝產業的功能，不再只提供穿搭及日常消耗的外在需求，將服裝的需求層次轉而提供「內在需求」，令服裝結合東方文化的歷史脈絡，也望以當代再詮釋漢服的手法吸引觀者對於古典文學產生好奇心，引發更多觀賞著對東方的深入探討。本論文將東方世界的文化透過「脈絡化」的方式重新使用服裝演繹，將設計服裝的過程，拆解為「文獻分析」、「生活細節」、「人物塑造」三種不同面向探討，研究《紅樓夢》時代背景，以「形態分析法」分析當時服裝，「人物角色分析法」塑造型格，並且透過研究、分析、再詮釋的方式將靈感貫穿整體，一氣呵成的服裝詮釋。此研究以中國經典文學《紅樓夢》為靈感，以主要角色－林黛玉為人物形像為創作，對其「服裝樣貌」、「人物性格」、「故事背景」三大主軸進行文獻分析探討。並以參考《紅樓夢》世界觀脈絡的「漢服創作」，並進行一系列服裝設計與花藝結合之實驗性手法創作，並將服裝與文學及歷史的結合，將人物形象抽象視覺化，平面閱讀立體化，再次重新詮釋出當代的紅樓夢人物形象，以形態分析法結合角色分析法，並融合文獻研究分析，以其為靈感設計《黛玉2.0》以林黛玉為靈感所設計之現代風格服飾稿，探討文本脈絡的「系統化」的研究調查，開創服裝創作的故事性脈絡，將文學立體化，提供未來研究文學作品服飾創作的研究者參考，以設計的角度貫穿文學與創作的古今交織。本研究以展覽方式作為實驗結果，並將其定義為「文本間的服裝設計學」。
並列摘要
A more important issue for the contemporary clothing industry is to provide appropriate products for the new generation. ＂Materialism＂ has gradually moved to ＂post-materialism＂. The function of the clothing industry is no longer limited to the external needs of dressing and daily consumption. , To transform the level of clothing demand to provide ＂internal demand＂, so that clothing combines the historical context of oriental culture, and also hopes to reinterpret Hanfu in contemporary ways to attract viewers to become curious about classical literature, triggering more watching the East discuss in depth. In this thesis, the culture of the oriental world is re-used in clothing interpretation through a ＂contextualization＂ method. The process of designing clothing is decomposed into three different aspects: ＂document analysis＂, ＂life details＂, and ＂character creation＂. ＂The background of the era, using＂ morphological analysis ＂to analyze the clothing at the time,＂ character analysis ＂to shape the style, and through research, analysis, and re-interpretation to penetrate the whole inspiration, the interpretation of clothing in one go. This research is based on the classic Chinese literature ＂Dream of Red Mansions＂ as inspiration, and uses the main character-Lin Daiyu as the character image to create a literature analysis on its three main axes: ＂costume appearance＂, ＂character character＂ and ＂story background＂. With reference to the ＂Hanfu creation＂ in the context of the world view of ＂Dream of Red Mansions＂, he carried out a series of experimental techniques combining costume design and floral art, combined costumes with literature and history, abstracted and visualized the characters, and three-dimensionally read the plane. , Re-interpret the contemporary image of the Dream of the Red Mansion, create a three-dimensional system of text clothing, and penetrate the ancient and modern interwoven literature and design from the perspective of design. This research uses the exhibition method as the experimental result, and defines it as ＂clothing design between texts＂.