- 期刊
精緻工藝於成衣品牌之應用
The Application of Exquisite Craftsmanship in Ready-to-Wear Brand
摘要
高級訂製服「Haute Couture」每年總引領時尚趨勢，並於流行時尚中被奉為指標。從現代流行時尚反觀擁有百年歷史的高級訂製服，並了解精緻工藝如何在歷史演進卻屹立不搖？從中探討它們細膩技術，並將此工藝融入於品牌當中，展現其核心價值。本研究蒐集相關歷史文獻作為理論背景，從高級訂製服的歷史興起與變化為前期理論基礎，再從服裝各層級的運用來探討高級訂製服、高級成衣、成衣的差異性，並對訂製工藝於服裝運用的三大面向進行了分析與探討，也作為後續創作的基礎來源。最後於實踐大學服裝設計學系PRAXES旗下Cynical Chéri女裝品牌實習期間，看到每季服裝款式設計上的表現運用，促使本研究提出將精緻工藝導入於品牌中並嘗試運用於此次系列設計，並以設計師第一視角下進行執行，從設計切入至工藝，將高級訂製與高級成衣中設計元素及其差異性應用於此；期望透過本研究者的美學涵養，能為Cynical Chéri品牌提供一項未來提升商品價值的策略思考方向。
並列摘要
Haute Couture always leads fashion trend every year, and is seen as a kind of icon in fashion. Comparing Haute Couture, which has history of hundreds of years, with modern fashion, how does it remain its place as history continues shifting? The study explores the exquisite craftsmanship and delicate techniques of Haute Couture from history, combining the craftsmanship into the brand PRAXES to shows its core value.This study gathers related historical documents as background theories; using the rise and changes of Haute Couture in history as the foundation of initial theories, and discusses the difference among Haute Couture, high-end ready-to wear, and ready-to wear from the craftsmanship usage of each level.The study also analyzes and explores the three aspects of couture craftsmanship's application on clothing, and takes them as the basis of later creation. During the time interning at Cynical Chéri, the women's clothing brand under PRAXES, in Shih Chien University Fashion Design Department, the researcher saw the expression and application of design on apparel every season. Motivated to apply couture craftsmanship to the brand, the researcher managed to use it in the collection design, and executed the creation from the first perspective of designer. From design to craftsmanship, the design elements and difference of Haute Couture and high-end ready-to wear were applied to the work. Through the researcher's aesthetics, the study hopes to provide Cynical Chéri a direction of strategic thinking on elevating the value of its products in the future.