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摘要


中國與韓國在秦漢以前彼此各自形成不同的文化園。通古斯族中的一派自白頭山流入松花江流域,形成韓國民族的直系祖先貊族,而開出了特有的東方文化之花。貊族政府之官職名以牛加、豬加、狗加等家畜名命名之。且在他們的肉類料理中也看出很好的手藝。晉朝〈搜神記〉中所載的「貊炙」,本來是東方貊族的烤肉料理,而自太始以來,在中國地區的名聲則愈顯高漲。又在「四民月令」中所介紹的末都(moh du)是醬的一種。本來在中國,醬即是肉醬,但東方文化圈的醬是豆醬,末都即是末醬是韓國的豆醬。故大豆文化自東方萌芽。在東方,自秦漢以來則受到中國文化的影響很大,尤其是接受很多各種料理法和食、糕、餅乾、醃魚、泡菜等加工品,這些東西在韓國的氣候、風土影響下被同化了。比起中國的酒用糯米來蒸,則韓國以在來米做成ku mok dok(一種糕的名稱)與粥及釀造的比率更高。雖然中國的糕餅大部分是用麵粉做的,但韓國使用米粉的東西很多。在韓國做醃魚時使用麥芽,在中國地方醃魚時則無此習慣。而泡菜的辛香料和中國的比起來也大大地不同,它使用很多川椒和辣椒。韓國在三國時代,經由中國而接受了佛教。中國對任何所有的外來文化是全盤的接受它,然執著於一件事情的情況很少;但在韓國則執著於一件事情上的情況卻很多。佛教在高麗中葉時達到隆盛。韓國甚為遵守佛教禁止殺生的教義。在「高麗國經」中,介紹高麗人民極為陌生的屠毅法。高麗時代幾乎無法看到肉食的事情。又因受佛教的影響,飲茶的風習也甚為風行。高麗末期,因受元朝統治的影響,食的文化則有巨大的改變。經由蒙古人找回了古代貊炙的傳統。對於肉食似白紙狀態的高麗,在「居家必用」的肉食料理法上,僅僅以牛肉代替羊肉,至於內臟料理法則幾乎照單全收。朝辭時代有名的料理書「山材經濟」中的肉食料理法,則大部分是引用於「居家必用」。但,文化的潮流並非是單向的流通。高麗的油蜜果(密麻花)、生菜葉包飯等食法也傳進中國。其次,朝鮮時代崇儒排佛是國家的基本政策。隨著排佛政策的執行,透過佛教而傳入的飲茶風俗亦遭受到嚴重的打擊。在簡要記載「朱子家禮」的「四禮便覽」中,使用於祭祀的茶也被換成水。而中國自宋朝起已漸改地不吃生的食物,但在韓國不管是禽獸的肉或魚,即使是生的也毫不猶豫地吃,就連內臟也生食。壬辰倭亂時期,來到朝鮮的明朝軍隊見此情形,皆以野蠻人嘲笑之;雖是如此,但朝鮮的儒者們以孔子亦吃生肉這有什麼不好而抗辯之。他們以返回孔子的思想做為理想,而孔子認為周朝是個理想的國家。理想國的周朝、孔子時代也吃狗肉,這個和中國沒有關係的吃狗肉事件,終於投有遭受到任何地抗拒,在朝鮮時代的許多料理書籍中,都有詳細地介紹狗肉的料理法。另外,周朝所謂的菹是在中國已經不使用的,而朝鮮時代又重回使用,而於孔子時代使用的湯匙則一直維持至今。同時儒教以事親孝養為教養的根本,因此大家都盡力尋求各種方法使自己的父母能健康地長命百歲。在中國收集了有關老人營養學十六冊,即所謂的《壽養叢書》,這些書集在朝鮮時代的每個家庭中都有珍藏,但這十六冊書的時代和地域卻各自不同,這點則令朝鮮人民很難理解之。李昌庭先生斟酌參考了《壽養叢書》而容易地整理出《壽養叢書類輯》(1620)以刊行之,因此它善及廣泛了且在中國也有刊行。

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China and Korea had developed their own cultures before the Chin and Han dynasties As one of the Tungus tribes moved in to the Shung Hua river valley from Mt. White Head and established a unique culluse among the countries in kin and ancesters of the Korean. Most of the government positions of the Mo Tribe were named after livestock such as bull, pig, and dog, etc . According to "Mysterious Findings" of the Tsin Dynasty, the Mo Tribe's tribe Berbecue was very popular all over China, which proves that this ancient tribe excelld in meat-cooking techniques. Besides, the team "moh du" in the People's Calender nust be one of the sauces. "Sauce" originally meant chopped meat in China But sauce is made from beans and called Moh Du in Korea. Therefore, we believe that bean-cooking might come from korea. Having been greatly affected since the Chin and Han dynasties by Chinese cooking methods (including meals, cakes, crackers, salty fish and pickles), there were gradually reprocessed in response to the different weather and natural conditions of Korea. For instance, Chinese people make win e with steamed glutinous rice, but Korean s use Ku Mok Dok (cake made of tzailai rice) and poridge, resulting in higher alcohol contents. For pies and cakes, rice powder is widely used in Korea while Chinese people use wheat flour. Moreover, Koreans their add wheat sprout b their salty fishs and much black or hot pepper in their pickles. These are quite differet from the Chinese way. Buddhism was introduced to korea from Chna in the Three-Kingdoms period. Chinese people tolerate a foreign ideas but never take then too seri-ous. But in Korea, once something is accepted, they stick to it with their mhde heart. When Biddhism prospered and weame widely accepted in Korea's Middle Ages, most peopIe would strictly observe the principle of "no killing". As a result, meat-eating was hardly practiced during that period s and tea-drinking became more popular for all walks of life. With the advent at mongol rule in the Yuan dynasty, ea ting habits changed radically in Korea when the traditional Mo Tribe barbecue was reintroduced to korea from the Mon-golians. Since Korean people had known almost nothing of meat-eating for a long time, they followed the Chinese way of meat-cooking in every respect except that they used beef instead of mutton,( see, Family Applications and Country Economy). However, culture is always interchangeable. The Korean style of confectionery, and rice wrapped with fresh vegetable leaf, were also intro duced to China. During the age of the Choson dynasties Chonfucianism replaced Buddhism and greatly changed the daily life of the Korean people. They even replaced the tea used in sacrifices with plain water. Starting from the Sung Dynasty, Chinese people gradually ceased to eat raw foods Whereas the Korean people continued to eat everything uncooked including meat, fish or internal organs. When the expeditionary forces of the Ming dynasty came and found such raw-food eating, they laughed at the natives as barbarians. But the Korean people countored by pointing out that Confucius himself sometimes ate raw meat. This matter proves that once Korean people fol-Iow a system, they will go for it all the way. In Confucius's time in the Warring States Period of the Chou dynasty, dog meat eating was popular. For this reason, it has been widely accepted in Korea without any objection. Dog meat cooking had been described in detail in many cuisine books of Choson. One of the basic principles in Confucianism is to feed one's parents well. Therefore, people tried their best to keep their parents healthy and long-lived. They collected much information from China and edited 16 volumes of "Collectaenea on Life Nurturing" which were widely treasurd by each family in Choson although different formula were adopted due to time and regional factors. Based on these collections, Mr. Yi Chang-Ting wrote a book Colegories of collectaenea on Life-Nurturing in 1620, which was also extensively published in China.

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被引用紀錄


凃宗呈(2005)。中國中古的素食觀〔碩士論文,國立臺灣大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2005.01621
林鴻鈞(2004)。新的數位影像加解密演算法及隱藏式視覺密碼演算法〔碩士論文,大同大學〕。華藝線上圖書館。https://www.airitilibrary.com/Article/Detail?DocID=U0081-0607200917233649

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