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台灣原住民的食物接觸與認同之分析
Analysis of Taiwan's Aborigines of Food Contact and Recognition
摘要
在人類的歷史文化中，食物從來就不只是維繫生存的功能而已，從「吃什麼」到用餐過程建構的複雜儀式，是地位表徵，同時也是不同族群文化認同的顯著投射。本文以台灣首府大學之原住民學生為研究對象，透過參與觀察與深度訪談之方法，以食物的接觸經驗為媒介，分析原住民各族群在飲食文化的認同與變遷的發展。研究的目的包含：瞭解原住民對部落食物與傳統料理的認同；釐清原住民在漢人食物中的選擇與適應情形；以及分析原住民的風味餐對傳統料理的衝擊與改變。研究結果發現：首先，大多數原住民學生都相當肯定部落的傳統料理，尤其居住部落越久的原住民學生，幾乎不分任何族群身份，幾乎完全肯定與認同自己的飲食文化。其次，在都會區居住越久的原住民學生，對於漢人食物的接受程度也就越高；相反的，居住部落時間越久的原住民學生，他們因為就學而移動至都會區生活，對於漢人的食物普遍出現難以適應的問題。第三，原住民學生對其族群與漢人的食物料理，有一定深刻體會兩者間的差異性，尤其在食材與味道方面，更呈現強烈的對比。對於風味餐的料理，大部分原住民學生認為因為這是將原住民美食推廣給漢人品味的契機，大多數是予以正面肯定的。只是，大多數的原住民學生幾乎尚難以接受風味餐成為族人的料理方式，因為他們認為兩者的烹調與口味差異甚大，尤其他們更認為飲食與傳統文化的元素有不可切割的關係。
並列摘要
In human history and culture, the food is not only maintaining the survival function. From ＂what to eat＂ to construct complex ritual during the meal, the food is not only the status of representation, but also the significant projected different ethnic groups' cultural identity. In this Study, Aboriginal students of Taiwan Shoufu University as the research objects, to analyze the development of various indigenous groups in the identity and change of food culture, and the experience of food contact is the media, through the method of participant observation and in-depth interviews. Objectives of this study comprises: to understand aboriginal identity for the tribal food and traditional dishes; to clarify Aboriginal selection and adaptation of the Han Chinese food; and to analyze the impact and change of traditional cuisine of Aboriginal style meal. The results found that: First, most Aboriginal students are fairly certain tribal traditional dishes, especially the time of Aboriginal students living in the indigenous tribes longer, and almost regardless of any ethnic identity, certainly identify with their food culture. Secondly, the time of Aboriginal students living in the metropolitan area longer, the higher degree of acceptance of Han Chinese food. On the contrary, the time of Aboriginal students living in the indigenous tribes longer, are generally difficult to adapt to the Han Chinese food because of moved to the metropolitan area by studying. Third, there are certain different experience between the Ethnic Cuisine and Han Chinese food of Aboriginal students, especially a strong contrast of ingredients and taste. Most Aboriginal students are positive affirmations that Aboriginal-style meal dishes are opportunity to promote Aboriginal cuisine to the Han Chinese. But, most Aboriginal students are still difficult to accept Aboriginal-style meal dishes becoming the tribe's cooking methods because of thinking of large difference of the cooking and taste. Especially, they believe that there are non-cleavable relationship between diet and the elements of traditional culture.