- 學位論文
微脂粒雙包覆亞佛苯酮與熊果素之特性研究
Characteristic analysis of avobenzone and arbutin co-encapsulated in liposomes
摘要
本研究的目的將藉由微脂粒載體技術應用於化妝品的雙成分包覆，將美白與防曬成分結合在同一載體系統，以結合兩者的功效。本研究將微脂粒脂雙層部位包覆疏水性的防曬劑avobenzone、微脂粒脂雙層的親水性內層則包覆美白劑arbutin，加強防曬劑的功能性與美白劑的穿透能力。本研究以不同比例的脂質、防曬劑與美白劑，利用薄膜水合法以及反相蒸發法製備雙包埋微脂粒，並觀察兩種製備方式對雙包埋微脂粒之粒徑大小、包覆量、包覆率等物化性質進行分析與探討，並進行模擬皮膚穿透試驗，觀察防曬劑與美白劑穿透情形。實驗結果顯示，雙包覆的微脂粒粒徑範圍約在150-400 nm，且反相蒸發法對於難包覆的親水性美白劑之包覆率較薄膜水合法來的高，從0.6%提升為1.6%。在模擬皮膚穿透試驗上，實驗結果發現美白劑可穿透模擬皮膚層到達承接室，而防曬劑則大多累積於模擬皮膚層。因此得知，藉由微脂粒載體技術雙包埋防曬劑以及美白劑時，可有效控制防曬劑在塗佈表層達到光保護效應，而美白劑則會經由微脂粒的輸送協助，將成份穿透至深層的皮膚組織中，以發揮美白的效果。
並列摘要
In this study, we intended to develop a liposome system to co-encapsulate the two active components; the hydrophobic sunscreen(avobenzone) encapsulated in the lipid bilyer and the hydrophilic whitening agents(arbutin) in the aqueous phase. Various ratio of lipid to avobenzone or arbutin were tested for the liposome preparation. The co-encapsulation liposomes were prepared by the thin film and reverse-phase evaporation method. The effect of liposome formulation on the particle size, entrapment efficiency (E.E%), and the skin permeation rate were studied. Our data showed the particle sizes of liposomes were in the range of 100~400 nm in all liposome formulations, the entrapment efficiency of hydrophilic whitening agents by reverse phase evaporation method is higher than the thin-film methods, from 0.6% to 1.6%. The in vitro permeation of co-encapsulated liposomes test showed that whitening agents penetrated through the model membrane to receptor chamber and the sunscreen can cumulate in model membrane. The result indicate the sunscreens and whitening agents co-encapsulated in the liposomes will assist the sunscreens in the outward to sun protection, and the whitening will penetrated into the deeper layers of skin to perform the whitening effect.