上海菜的文化底蘊與理想實踐：以葉公館滬菜餐廳為例

本研究從中菜的淵源出發，旨在檢視傳統上海菜的文化底蘊，以及如何將傳統上海菜發揚光大，實踐中菜和世界其他國家主要菜系並駕齊驅的理想。本研究以台北葉公館餐廳為例，說明一家具有特色的頂級上海菜餐廳，如何透過餐廳本身的經營理念，為傳統中菜注入新時代元素，一方面回首尋求上海菜的源頭，一方面前瞻進取面對全球各國菜系，期能為中菜長遠未來尋得出路。葉公館很清楚，餐廳是獨佔競爭行業，唯有建立獨特性，才是中菜永續經營的基礎。這樣的理念，同時也呼應當前環境、社會與企業管理的概念。

關鍵字

上海菜；文化底蘊；理想實踐

並列摘要

Starting from the origin of Chinese cuisine, this study aims to examine the cultural heritage of traditional Shanghai cuisine, and then carrying forward Shanghai cuisine to practice the ideal so as to compete other cuisines around the world. This study takes the Taipei Chez Yeh Restaurant as an example to illustrate how a top Shanghai restaurant with unique characteristics can incorporate new elements into traditional Chinese cuisine through the restaurant’s own business philosophy. On the one hand, it traces back and seeks the source of Shanghai cuisine, while on the other hand it is forward-looking to face the challenges of various cuisines in the world. Chez Yeh Restaurant well acknowledges that restaurants are in a monopolistic competition industry, while only the establishment of uniqueness is the basis for the sustainable operation of Chinese cuisine. Such a concept also echoes the current concepts of environmental, social and corporate governance.