排灣族傳統服飾研究-以Ravar亞族女性服飾為例

排灣族Ravar亞族華麗的傳統服飾，在臺灣原住民中堪稱一絕。然隨著時代的變遷，傳統服飾的形式逐漸式微，研究者身為Ravar族人，基於珍惜這份文化資產及使命感，希望能傳承並發揚光大。本論文從Ravar傳統服飾探討，瞭解服飾造型、圖騰意義，再透過現代服裝設計技巧，設計一系列創新原住民族文化風格的服裝。由研究結果發現，排灣族Ravar亞族衣飾上的圖紋，常用一粒粒小琉璃珠，一針一線穿綴而成，或以十字繡、貼布繡等手法縫製完成。族人在慶典或婚禮時會穿著盛裝，盛裝的圖紋表現繁多，除了有百步蛇紋、太陽紋、宇宙神紋、人形紋、陶甕紋、太陽紋、植物紋、蝴蝶紋等之外，也常見幾何圖形的菱形紋、三角形紋等，紋飾應用相當廣泛。在傳統服飾的圖樣設計，會因身份階級之差異，而有不同呈現。Ravar女性傳統盛裝服飾炫麗華貴，從頭到腳的裝飾雖然隆重繁多卻精緻有序。族服的形制，不論男士短上衣或女性長上衣，皆為右襟圓領，T字呈現。門襟部份男女均左蓋右，女性族服斜襟處理，男裝則為蓋式襟片處理。Ravar亞族服飾蘊涵了傳統藝術及傳達群族認同的意義，裝飾多元且別具特色。在創新原住民族文化風格服裝之商品企劃及設計方面，共設計5個主題，分別是：「元首的新衣」、「新古典主義風」、「心機」、「坎肩進化論」及「平民的雍容」。在設計理念上，如「元首的新衣」以蝴蝶紋表徵元首積極、神速，深入基層，為民奔波。在技法上，以長上衣(俗稱的龍袍)及長裙做呈現。服裝搭配傳統盤扣、貼布繡及珠繡…等，將傳統文化元素導入時尚格局，展現新風貌。

關鍵字

排灣族服飾； Ravar亞族；圖紋；創新風格設計

並列摘要

The traditional costumes of the Pawan Ravar subfamily are gorgeous and distinctive.With the changes of the times, the form of traditional .Costumes has been forgotten .The researcher is Ravar, In order to cherish this cultural asset and mission, I have invested in creation and look forward to inheritance and promotion. Explore the styling and totem of Ravar's traditional costumes. Designing innovative aboriginal imagery with modern clothing design techniques. According to the research results, Ravar clothing is often decorated with glass beads. Also, use the cross stitch and appliqué techniques to sew. Gorgeous outfits will be worn at celebrations and weddings. The costume totem has a hundred steps of snake pattern, sun pattern, cosmic god pattern, human figure pattern, pottery pattern, plant pattern, butterfly pattern, diamond pattern, triangle pattern and so on. The totems of traditional clothing vary according to the identity class. Ravar women's traditional dresses are luxurious, bright, decorated and refined. The Ravar top is in the form of a T, and both men and women are right-handed round necks.In the form of a threshold, both men and women are left and right. Ravar clothing is artistic and conveys a sense of group identity. Clothing accessories are diverse and distinctive. Innovative Indigenous Image Design has five themes, namely, "New Clothes of the Heads of State", "New Classical Style", "Spirit of Mind", "On the Evolution of the Shoulder", "The Grace of the Civilian". The design concept is that the butterfly pattern implies that the primary is positive and understands the public opinion. The design technique is expressed in Ljungpaw and long skirts. Clothing with buckles, appliqués and beaded embroidery. Transform traditional elements into stylish designs and showcase new looks