- 學位論文
探討基於環境承諾的紡織產業碳中和:以Levi`s公司自主減量策略為例
Exploring Carbon Neutrality in the Textile Industry Based on Environmental Commitments: A Case Study of Levi`s Company's Voluntary Emission Reduction Strategies
摘要
全球暖化，極端氣候肆虐許多野生動物在大自然中面臨絕跡，在面對 環境氣候變遷的挑戰下，為了達到於2015年聯合國氣候峰會中通過的氣 候協議<<巴黎協定>>事項，各國紛紛採取行動，本世紀末全球平均升溫控 制在2°C內目標，國際達到共識為此制定相應的策略和政策以應對。作為 對氣候變遷的回應，我國於2023年1月制定碳邊境稅機制，並將氣候變遷 等相關法規正式命名為氣候變遷因應法。此旨在推動減少碳排放、碳中和 及可持續發展，2024年各國開始徵收碳邊境稅（碳稅）的關鍵年份，我國 徵收碳費則是氣候變遷因應法而制，這一行動標誌著全球對於減少碳排 放和控制溫室氣體的共同努力。 根據環境部統計，2020年共回收8.2萬噸舊衣，其中36%製成燃料棒， 降級使用22%，經濟部能源局公布電力碳排係數為0.495公斤CO₂e/度，表 示每發一度電的碳排放量為0.495公斤，而1噸標準煤會產生約2.25噸二 氧化碳，舊衣物直接焚化數據從2019年19,200噸上升到2022年的27,341 噸，對比環境部回收數據，舊衣物回收量年年增長，但從直接進焚化廠或 掩埋的數據看來，真正回收再利用的比例只達30%，產生「環境承諾實踐 落差」現象。 紡織業是全球經濟佔有重要地位，焚化衣物碳排放量佔全球10%。升 級強化再利用計畫不可延遲，根據數據顯示目前我國二手衣去化管道「收 即燒」的模式，焚燒數量遠超過再利用數量，導致資源嚴重浪費，更無法 解決衣物碳排放問題。 本研究以牛仔褲為例，運用環境庫茲涅茲曲線(EKC)模型，找出排放 量影響最大的牛仔褲，探討調整材質選擇，進而降低碳排量和控制溫室氣 體。平均牛仔褲材質每公斤碳排量為32kg二氧化碳當量（CO₂e），是其他 衣物排放量的兩倍以上，因此控制降低牛仔褲生產過程中材質選擇為減 碳為重點方向。 牛仔褲製程逐步提升構想，規劃替換高碳排改採低碳排材質如下，策 略一牛仔褲原材質每公斤：彈性纖維17kg、有機棉7.5kg、聚酯纖維7.7kg、 亞麻2.5 kg、人造纖維5.7 kg替換低碳排材質為：聚酯加工絲5.0 kg、人 工棉2.5 kg、直紡聚酯纖維5.0 kg、亞麻2.5 kg與人造纖維5.69 kg。原 材質總排放量本為40.4 kg替換材質後總排放量降低至20.7 kg共減少了 49%碳排量；策略二替換低碳排材質為：生質尼龍纖維1.9 kg、混紡棉4.52 kg、再生聚酯纖維3.5 kg、再生聚酯1.7 kg、麻纖維1.8 kg、合成橡膠乳 液2.39 kg替換材質後降低至12.3 kg 共減少了70%碳排量，第三策略使 用再生材質及生物材質如竹纖維每公斤排放量為0.5 kg、再生聚酯纖維 3.5 kg、KINTRA 生物聚酯0.07 kg、麻纖維1.8 kg、天然橡膠0.5 kg透 過替換再生材質，我們成功將原材質總排放量從40.4 kg降至6.4 kg，實 現了高達85%的碳排放量減少，分別使用三種策略替換材質後，分別達到 降低至49%、70%和85%的碳排放量，不僅達到碳中和的效果，同時也呼應 了循環經濟及環境永續的理念，是對環境目標的實際支持，更是我們對可 持續發展的堅定承諾，通過各方面的積極行動，致力於實現環境目標，減 少環境承諾的實踐落差。
並列摘要
Global warming, coupled with extreme weather events, has led to the extinction of many wildlife species in nature. In the face of the challenges posed by climate change, countries worldwide are taking action to meet the goal of limiting the global average temperature increase to 2°C by the end of this century, as outlined in the Paris Agreement. In response to climate change, my country implemented a carbon border tax mechanism in January 2023, formally naming relevant regulations as the Climate Change Response Act. This initiative aims to promote carbon emission reduction, carbon neutrality, and sustainable development. The year 2024 marks a crucial period as countries globally begin levying carbon border taxes (carbon taxes). In my country, the imposition of carbon fees is governed by the Climate Change Response Act, symbolizing a collective global effort to reduce carbon emissions and control greenhouse gases. According to statistics from the Environmental Protection Agency, a total of 82,000 tons of used clothing were recycled in 2020. Of this, 36% was converted into fuel rods, and 22% was downgraded for alternative uses. The Ministry of Economic Affairs' Energy Bureau reported a carbon emission coefficient for electricity of 0.495, indicating that the carbon emissions per kilowatt-hour are 0.495 kilograms. Considering that one ton of standard coal generates 2.25 tons of carbon dioxide, the direct incineration of used clothing increased from 19,200 tons in 2019 to 27,341 tons in 2022. Despite the increasing recycling rates of used clothing, the proportion that is genuinely recycled and reused remains around 30%, highlighting an "environmental commitment-practice gap." The textile industry holds a significant position in the global economy. However, the reuse of secondhand clothing is restricted, with the carbon emissions from incinerating clothing accounting for 10% of global emissions. Urgent measures are needed to upgrade and enhance reuse programs. Current data indicates that the "collect and burn" model for handling secondhand clothing in our country results in a significantly higher quantity being incinerated than reused, leading to severe resource wastage and an inability to address carbon emissions from clothing effectively. This study takes denim jeans as an example and utilizes the Environmental Kuznets Curve (EKC) model to identify jeans with the highest emissions. The focus is on adjusting material choices to reduce carbon emissions and control greenhouse gases. The average carbon emission per kilogram of denim jeans material is 32 kg of CO₂ equivalent, more than twice the emissions of other clothing items. Therefore, Fntrolling and reducing carbon emissions during the denim jeans production process emphasizes material selection. The conceptual improvement of the denim jeans production process involves planning the replacement of high-carbon materials with low-carbon alternatives. In strategy one, the original material composition per kilogram of denim jeans includes elastic fibers 17 kg, organic cotton 7.5 kg, polyester fibers 7.7 kg, flax 2.5 kg, and synthetic fibers 5.7 kg. The low-carbon replacement materials are polyester filament 5.0 kg, artificial cotton 2.5 kg, spun polyester fibers 5.0 kg, flax 2.5 kg, and synthetic fibers 5.69 kg. The total emission of original materials was 40.4 kg, reduced to 20.7 kg after material replacement, resulting in a 49% reduction in carbon emissions. In strategy two, the low carbon replacement materials are biomass nylon fibers 1.9 kg, blended cotton 4.52 kg, recycled polyester fibers 3.5 kg, recycled polyester 1.7 kg, flax 1.8 kg, and synthetic rubber emulsion 2.39 kg. After material replacement, the emission was reduced to 12.3 kg, achieving a 70% reduction in carbon emissions. In strategy three, the use of recycled and bio-based materials such as bamboo fibers 0.5 kg per kilogram, recycled polyester fibers 3.5 kg, KINTRA bio-polyester 0.07 kg, flax 1.8 kg, and natural rubber 0.5 kg successfully reduced the total emission from 40.4 kg to 6.4 kg, achieving an impressive 85% reduction in carbon emissions. The replacements achieved reductions of 49%, 70%, and 85% in carbon emissions, demonstrating the environmental benefits of different strategies. These achievements not only support environmental goals but also represent our firm commitment to sustainable development. Through proactive actions in various aspects, we are dedicated to achieving environmental goals and reducing the practice gap in environmental commitments.