記載與再定義：十七世紀前半佛羅倫斯宮廷中的土耳其風服裝與其檔案紀錄

Documenting and Redefining Turkish-Style Dresses and Their Archival Records in the Florentine Courts, 1600-1640

葉嘉華(Yeh, Chia-hua)

《臺大文史哲學報》 預刊文章 Pp. 1-64

https://doi.org/10.6258/bcla.202209/PP.0002

摘要

十八世紀的「土耳其風尚」（Turquerie）是歐洲文化藝術研究中的重要主題，其中服裝方面的探討頗受矚目。然而，目前學界缺乏歐洲土耳其風服裝的早期發展以及其設計價值等相關面向的調查。因此，本研究以十七世紀前半義大利佛羅倫斯宮廷為例，通過解讀和分析《公爵府庫房檔案》中的「土耳其風服裝」紀錄，勾勒這些服裝的面貌，並探討佛羅倫斯觀點下的土耳其風格定義。本文首先呈現此時期土耳其風服裝以及配件的形態和來源，接著通過多種資料交互比對，探究檔案紀錄中提到的土耳其風植物紋樣之形式和意義。本末則以1602年佛羅倫斯艦隊所得之掠奪品以及1637年土耳其「帕夏」所贈之外交禮物為例，闡述這些土耳其風服裝在當時政治處境中產生的獨特價值。

關鍵字

土耳其風尚 ； 服裝設計 ； 十七世紀 ； 佛羅倫斯 ； 內務檔案

並列摘要

During the cultural movement of Turquerie in the eighteenth century, Turkish-style dresses, which were generally made for theatrical performances and banquets, were prevalent in Europe. The dresses were commonly regarded as cultural representations of European fantasies about the Orient and often applied as inspirations for European dress design. However, little research has been done on how Turkish-style dresses were made and received by local communities in Europe before the eighteenth century. Therefore, this article aims to investigate the style, material, and function of Turkish-style dresses during the first half of the seventeenth century by probing into the records of Guardaroba Medicea-the household document in the Florentine courts. Furthermore, this article analyzes the form and meaning of the Turkish plants, floral patterns, and their receptions in Europe based on a detailed analysis of Guardaroba Medicea and other documentation, including pattern books, textiles, and objects from museum collections. Finally, this article presents the loot inventory of a Florentine military galley in 1602 as well as an archival record related to a special gift from Turkish Pascià to exemplify how the Turkish-style dresses could serve as valuable looted artifacts or as meaningful diplomatic gifts. Above all, this research paves the way for understanding and redefining these exotic dresses in early modern Florence.

並列關鍵字

Household Document ； Dress Design ； Florence ； Seventeenth Century ； Turquerie

參考文獻

Florio, John. Florio’s 1611 Italian/English Dictionary: Queen Anna’s New World of Words. London: Printed by Melch. Bradwood, for Edw. Blount and William Barret, 1611.

Menavino, Giovanni Antonio. Trattato de costumi et vita de Turchi. Florence, 1548.

Pellegrino, Francesco di. La Fleur de la science de pourtraicture. Patrons de broderie, façon arabicque et ytalique. Paris, 1530. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k857536m/f93.item.

Solerti, Angelo, ed. Musica ballo e drammatica alla corte medicea dal 1600 al 1637. Notize tratte da un diario tenuto da Cesare Tinghi. Florence: R . Bemporad and Figlio, 1905.

Vecellio, Cesare. The Clothing of the Renaissance World, Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas. Venice, 1590. Translated by Margret Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones. London: Thomas and Hudson, 2008.