從文獻看印尼紗籠與蠟染紋飾流變

紗籠（Sarong）是印尼最重要的傳統服飾，歷來研究多以單一形制分析，少有綜合評述紗籠與紋飾。本文以中國文獻與圖像為核心，參照印尼本土古蹟淺浮雕圖像、西方遊記插圖，透過中外史籍與視覺材料多方參照、相互印證，希能透過本研究釐清印尼紗籠與蠟染紋飾之流變，以及其背後之歷史文化發展。研究內容包括：一、爬梳《職貢圖》與中外交流史籍中有關印尼服飾的記述，探究紗籠發展歷程；二、解析印尼古蹟遺址淺浮雕服飾相關圖像；三、從16至19世紀西方人遊歷亞洲的遊記與書籍插圖，與前述兩單元的文獻與圖像資料相互參照，研析印尼紗籠發展的脈絡；四、追索蠟染的起源，次則討論蠟染技法，透過中國文獻的記載，說明印尼染製技法與發展歷程；第五章、第六章則是關注蠟染紋飾，以中爪哇、北岸兩區域為焦點，探討這兩個區域的歷史文化發展，如何形塑不同地區紋飾發展的特色。透過上述的研究說明印度文化、伊斯蘭信仰、歐洲文明、華人文化等多元文化，作為形塑印尼服飾型制與紋飾設計的關鍵角色，期能藉由本文作為印尼服飾與紋飾的基礎研究，待未來有更多的研究能深入探討印尼不同區域的服飾與裝飾技法。

關鍵字

印尼紗籠；印尼傳統服飾；印尼蠟染

並列摘要

Sarong, one of the most important traditional costumes in Indonesia. Over the years, studies on Indonesian Sarong tends to be unitary, a comprehensive review on both Indonesian Sarong and patterns is rarely seen. This article is mainly based on study of Chinese literature and illustrations, as well as referring to bas-reliefs of Indonesian historical monuments, illustrations of Western travel notes, hoping by cross-referencing Chinese and foreign historical records and visual materials can reveal the correlation between how Sarong and Batik patters were influenced and transformed in the historical and cultural context. This study consists of 6 sections. The first section outlines the history of the sarong by referring to ＂Illustrations of Official Tribute＂ (Zhigong tu) and historical records of exchanges between China and foreign countries. The second section will focus on the bas-reliefs of Indonesian historical monuments related to traditional attire. Followed by the third section, the section surveys westerners' travel records and illustrations based on their travel in Asia in the 16th to 19th centuries, to comparing these with the documents and images of the first and the second sections, in order to get a clearer picture of the development of the Indonesian sarong. The section 4 centers on batik techniques, tracing their development from their origins, based on the evidence from Chinese literature. At last, sections 5 and 6 focus on batik patterns, analyzing the characteristic patterns of different regions and their history according to the diversity of historical contexts and regions. By the above research, we can see multicultural influences such as Indian culture, Islamic religion, European civilization, Chinese culture, as key elements in shaping Indonesian clothing styles and pattern designs. Hopefully, this article as a basic study on Indonesian costume and decorative patterns can bring further in-depth researches on the topic.