探討再鞣劑與染色助劑對鉻鞣革染色影響

Study on Dyeing of Chrome Tanned Leather for Retanning Agents and Dyeing Auxiliaries

廖盛焜(S. K. Liao,) ； 陳雄富(S. F.Chen) ； 朱柏榕(P. Z. Chu) ； 吳忠澤(C. T. Wu) ； 許聖東(S. D. Syu)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 24卷3期 (2014/07) Pp. 24-31

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.201407_24(3).0004

摘要

染色是製革生產中的一個重要工程，使皮革呈現各種鮮豔的顏色，改善外觀和提高使用性能，以滿足人們的要求和適應各種用途的需要。一些常用來染深色革的染料，因為會對人體產生有害的影響，而遭到被禁止使用的命運；目前所代替使用的染料，其缺點為深色染效果不佳，需進行多次染色才能達到所需的深色。本研究為探討再鞣程序與染色助劑對鉻鞣革染色之影響，期望透過此方法能有效提升鉻鞣革染深色化部分；實驗使用再鞣劑(Relugan GT-50、Chromitan FM)與染色助劑（氨水、L-105 Kortan RCN、Newbon TS 400、Sunwet S 40）。經實驗結果顯示: 再鞣劑方面，鉻鞣革對於使用Relugan GT-50與Chromitan FM兩種鞣劑結合之再鞣，對所使用酸性染料Black BR而言，皮革K/S值比單獨使用之鞣劑高且增加了皮革的豐滿性；另外染色助劑方面，經光學顯微鏡觀察鉻鞣革切面之染料滲透情形，發現實驗所使用的四支染色助劑有助於鉻鞣革的透染，其中經染色助劑L-105 Kortan RCN處理後的鉻鞣革，對實驗所使用酸性染料Black BR有較佳滲透效果。

關鍵字

鉻鞣革 ； 再鞣程序 ； 染色助劑

並列摘要

Dyeing is an important process in the leather manufacturer industry. It makes leather present as various colors, better appearance and greater performance in order to the requirement of textile market and various applications. Some dyestuffs used in deep dyeing of leathers would be inhibited because of their damage in human body. Dyestuffs that replace traditional dyes descript above were suffered from their limit effect on deep dyeing made the processes must proceeded for many times.In this experiment, we study on dyeing of chrome tanned leather for retanning agents and dyeing auxiliaries. Wu wish the step can deep color on chrome tanned leather in dyeing process. The experiment's results show that in retanning agent, no matter grain or flesh, the use of a combination of Relugan GT-50 and Chromitan FM with acid dyestuffs (Black BR) to dye the leathers, the color strength of leather is higher than using Relugan GT-50 alone. The use of a combination of tanning agents was not only increase the color strength but also rise the fullness of leather. In the application of dyeing auxiliaries, we observed the penetration of chrome tanned leather cross-section by optical microscope. It was found that four dyeing auxiliaries had their contribution to the penetration of chrome tanned leather in dyeing process. No matter acid dyestuff was used respectively (Black BR), them had better penetration in chrome tanned leather as leathers were by dying auxiliary L-105 Kortan RCN.

並列關鍵字

chrome tanned leather ； retanning process ； dyeing auxiliaries