長褲Walking Legs現象之研究

A Study of Walking Legs of Long Pants

黃艷雲(Y. Y. Huang) ； 蘇姝妃(C. F. Su)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 24卷4期 (2014/10) Pp. 24-29

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.201410_24(4).0004

摘要

紡織廠生產布料時，會因種種因素造成經緯紗無法呈垂直，而演變為「緯斜」瑕疵情形，並且不同紗線成份亦會有緯斜尺寸差異，根據全國公證檢驗中心條例規定，一般紡織廠應控制布紋緯斜在-3~-5%範圍內，認定緯斜可容忍範圍約在1_(1/4)至1_(1/2)英吋之間；然而，成衣褲子版型一般是假設經緯紗呈垂直狀，導致製作出的褲子往往造成walking legs現象，也促使成衣廠無法順利克服並如期交貨，間接嚴重影響國際接單競爭力。本研究先選擇具緯斜之長纖、短纖、混紡三類非彈性和彈性布料進行樣衣製作實驗，實驗結果顯示彈性和非彈性布料皆可藉由改變車縫方向克服walking legs問題。

關鍵字

彈性布料 ； 非彈性布料 ； 緯斜

並列摘要

Weft slanting(Weft Bias)defects usually appear in a textile when warp and weft threads are not in perpendicular owing to a variety of factors in the production of bi-directional elastic fabric (four-side elastic fabric) in a textile mill. The extent of weft slanting depends on the different composition of threads. The weft slanting of a fabric should be kept less than -3~-5% in a textile mill according to the regulation of Intertek Testing Services Taiwan Ltd. This is equivalent to set the allowance of weft slanting between 1.25 and 1.5 inch. However, apparel pant pattern is usually designed under the assumption that warp and weft threads are in perpendicular. The weft slanting defects may result in the walking legs problem. The walking leg problems usually delay the delivery time in textile mills and reduce the international competition ability in market. The objective of the research project is to develop special pattern making technique to overcome the walking legs problem. Elastic and inelastic fabrics of long, short and mixed fibers are utilized to make the prototype of clothing. The walking legs problem of either elastic or inelastic fabrics may be solved by changing the sewing direction.

並列關鍵字

Elastic fabric ； inelastic fabric ； weft slanting(Weft Bias) ； walking legs(leg twist)