食物的社會生命：臺灣鳳梨產業的蛻變與再起

臺灣和鳳梨的產業互動關係最早可追溯白日治時期，罐頭產品成為運輸熱帶水果的最佳方式，臺灣更在1971年創下外銷鳳梨罐頭世界第一，也使得鳳梨的製罐發展達到高峰。之後由於不敵國際市場競爭，鳳梨產業發展製罐陷入低潮，使得地方被迫轉型與再發展。鳳梨產業進行品種改良並調整為以鮮食鳳梨市場為主，傳統的鳳梨栽培產生妥協與品質治理，形成新形態的鳳梨產銷關係。另一方面，在2008年兩岸三通後，隨著政治經濟氛圍的轉變，在後現代消費文化與全球文化經濟的帶動下，鳳梨的符號意義從做為感謝、慶賀、表現心意的吉祥意象逐漸演變成具備臺灣意涵與在地「土」象徵，記錄了不同時代社會文化需求。不同時期的鳳梨商品演變，展現出歷史發展中鳳梨不同的意涵，流變轉換成不同的消費符碼的現象，同時也說明市場偏好與消費者意識如何影響農產商品產銷治理。本文透過物的社會生命的觀點討論鳳梨物性轉變的過程與意涵，並借道Baudrillard商品符號價值的理論來理解在不同時代背景下，臺灣鳳梨商品產生變動符號價值的過程與原因，探究臺灣農產商品結合現代消費符號價值概念的現象，理解鳳梨產銷如何與時俱變，並透過符號意義生產提升商品價值。

關鍵字

鳳梨；物的社會生命；符號價值；品質治理

並列摘要

The development of the pineapple industry in Taiwan could be dated to the Japanese colonial period. Canned products had once become the best way to transport tropical fruit. In 1971, Taiwan became the biggest canned pineapple exporter in the world. However, Taiwan's canned pineapple export faced serious global competition. Since then, the pineapple industry has transformed the business from canned pineapple to fresh pineapple and developed new production and marketing relationship. On the other hand, the cultural meaning of pineapple also underwent similar transformation. Since Three Direct Links across the Taiwan Straits in 2008, the cultural meaning of pineapple has changed from blessing, celebration, and prosperity to the symbol of Taiwanese value and culture. A series of evolution of pineapple as a commodity and cultural icon reflects the transition of political regimes and consumer behavior. This transformation also emblematizes how market preference and conscious consumption shape the production and marketing of agricultural commodities. The study adopts Appadurai's view in The Social Life of Things to discuss the process and the underlying meaning of pineapple products' transition. In addition, by applying Baudrillard's theory of sign value, the process and the reasons for the symbolic value change of Taiwan's pineapple products under different historical contexts are explored. The connection between pineapple commodities and the modern symbolic consumption indicates how pineapple production and marketing have changed from time to time and how their value has been raised through symbolic meanings.