社會變遷中女裝訂作師傅專業生涯發展之探討

Professional Career Development for Couturiers: A World of Change

劉竹華(C. H. Liu) ； 范靜媛(J. Y. Fan) ； 黃品甄(P. J. Huang) ； 李方素芬(S. F. Lee Fang)

《華岡紡織期刊》 21卷1期 (2014/03) Pp. 43-52

摘要

「女裝訂作師傅」在臺灣早期經濟體系是倍受重視的職業，但隨著社會變遷與產業發展，客製化需求逐漸降低，或其專業能力無法全盤因應服裝成衣化趨勢，許多女裝訂作師傅進而更換跑道，從事其他行業，因而引發研究者意欲探討臺灣女裝訂作師傅隨著社會變遷之專業生涯發展動機；研究方法主要採用個別訪談法，輔以文獻分析法，以立意抽樣選取研究對象十人，研究者親自訪問目前仍在開業之臺灣女裝訂作師傅，透過半結構式訪談提綱瞭解其專業生涯發展，蒐集第一手資料；本研究結果獲致女裝訂作師傅的專業生涯發展歷程受到「內在動機」、「自我價值」、「外在影響」、「專業能力」、「趨勢」、「實現理想」、「薪傳」七大核心概念影響；研究期間與「秀才服裝號有限公司」採取「資源合作」之「專家借調及專家提供」的產學合作模式，共同發現與解決培育服裝產業人才問題，進而對學習女裝訂作者、服裝成衣產業，以及未來研究提出具體可行建議。

關鍵字

社會變遷 ； 女裝訂作師傅 ； 專業生涯發展

並列摘要

Couturier was a highly valued profession in the early economy system in Taiwan. With the social change and industry development, the needs for customization were greatly reduced. Due to constraints of professional capacity, many couturiers failed to follow trends of finished garments. They chose to change their career and engage in other professions. Thus, the author intends to explore the motivation for career development of couturiers with social change in Taiwan. The study is mainly based on individual interviews, complemented with document analysis method. The researcher visited Taiwan couturiers in person, interviewed them with semi-structured questions to understand their career development and acquire the first-hand data. The object of study is determined by purposive sampling. The number of sampling object is 10. It was found that in traditional tailoring industry, the profession orientation comes from work experience and personal characteristics. It needs the attitude and personality of keeping perfect. It is self-accomplishment, innovation and self-affirmation. Dedication is a continual momentum for career development. The researcher deeply explores each perspective, sorts out the conceptual framework and works out their relationship with professional career development of couturiers.

並列關鍵字

Social change ； couturier ； professional career development