短纖紗撚紗條件對其梭織物機能性影響之研究

The Study of the Twisting Effect of Spun Yarn on Functional Properties of Woven Fabric

徐錦祥(C.H. Hsu) ； 呂慶祥(C. H. Lu) ； 李友忠(Y. C. Lee) ； 吳建興(C. H. Wu)

《華岡紡織期刊》 22卷5期 (2015/12) Pp. 271-275

摘要

本研究主要針對純棉與混紡紗線經不同的追撚加工條件下所得紗線進行織物之相關物性評估討論，主要之物性研究包含織物布厚、覆蓋率、瞬間接觸涼感值Q-max、水份擴散面積與乾燥速率。由實驗結果可知，紗線經過撚紗加工後，由於紗線產生撚縮加上織物退漿精練漂白製程中之染縮，使得所得布樣之布厚隨著所追撚度的增加而逐漸增厚。布樣之覆蓋率亦隨著紗線撚度變化所產生之撚縮增加而上升。在純棉紗的部分，隨著所追撚度的提升Q-max 值微幅增加。在混紡紗的部分，由於紗線中含有含水率較低之聚酯纖維，而使混紡紗之Q-max 普遍比純棉紗為低。另混紡紗在追撚及精練製程之熱縮後，其織物瞬間接觸涼感Q-max 反而隨著紗線追撚撚度的提升反而下降。不論純棉或混紡紗，隨著所追撚度的提升，布樣之水分擴散面積呈現下降的趨勢。在乾燥速率的檢測結果可看出，隨著紗線所追撚度的提升，布樣之乾燥速率(殘餘水分率)則呈現增加的趨勢。

關鍵字

撚度 ； 瞬間接觸涼感值 ； 水分擴散能力 ； 乾燥速率

並列摘要

In this study, the twisting effect of cotton and blended yarn were studied on the physical and functional properties of their woven fabric. Main properties included fabric thickness, coverage, Q-max, water diffusibility and drying rate. From the results, it is obvious that the fabric thickness and coverage increased with increasing the yarn twisted (TPM). From Q-max results, the Q-max of fabric of cotton yarn increased with increasing TPM of yarn, the Q-max of fabric of T/C blended yarn decreased with increasing TPM of blended yarn, and the fabric Q-max of cotton yarn was higher than the fabric Q-max of blended yarn. The fabric water diffusion area (in 20 seconds) decreased with increasing TPM of yarn, the fabric drying rate (remained water after 40 min) increased with increasing TPM of yarn.

並列關鍵字

Twist ； Q-Max ； Water Diffusibility ； Drying Rate